Jump to content
SAU Community

Question About A Small Accident And Rights....

Simon-S14
 Share

Recommended Posts

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

My gf had a small scrape with another car while turning into a shopping centre carpark, The other car was a 4wd and there wasn't much room for a R31 to park i have to say. The owner of the car was loading her car up when it happened.

My gf and the owner exchanged details.. then i rocked up to the scene, damage was no more then paint transfer from my gf's black bumper to the plastic rear bumper of the silver 4wd (forget what make)

anyway the owner of the car has already gotr a quote to fix it.. from a crash repairer in the adelaide hills.. Quote was $300 and they reckon there is suspension damage also. Now i am a mechanic and LPG fitter and this is clear as day solid bullshit.

What i want to know is what are my gf's rights in this case?

Cheers

Simon

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

[quote name='simon-ae86' date='8 Mar 2007, 06:01 PM' post='2964545

anyway the owner of the car has already gotr a quote to fix it.. from a crash repairer in the adelaide hills.. Quote was $300 and they reckon there is suspension damage also.

what a load of shit... tell them that you want a second opinion and try and take it to someone you know... otherwise if they have no insurance tell em to stick it up their asses and to fix it themselves and that you'll give their car a cut n polish :D

f*kn criminals :D

excess with insurance sometimes is worth more than damage caused... seriously tell em to blow it out their asses with the suspension...

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
No it wasnt... and it will be very soon but that doesnt help this case.

Damage in my opinion wouldnt exceed 100 max.. and thats buffing and touching up the existing paint.

Why should the other driver put up with a sub-standard repair? :)

$300 to repair/repaint the bar is resonable, as i have had my undamaged bar preped and painted for about the same price.

The suspension bit sounds like bullshit. Tell them you want to come and take photos, then let them take you to court and the case will be thrown out the doors :)

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
If your at fault you should pick the smash repairer and get at least one quote to compare

Bullshit............. I wouldn't let my car go to the cheapist/dogey repairer, chosen by the person responsible. The victim should chose their prefered repairer.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why should the other driver put up with a sub-standard repair? :)

$300 to repair/repaint the bar is resonable, as i have had my undamaged bar preped and painted for about the same price.

The suspension bit sounds like bullshit. Tell them you want to come and take photos, then let them take you to court and the case will be thrown out the doors :)

thats just the thing.. its over quoted because the bar does not need repainting, the black paint off the bumper has just transferred onto the car, no actual damage to the base coat of the 4wd had occured.. so all it needs is a good cut and polish + buffing.

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted

you should have insurance

then they would tell them to piss off for you

your only hope is to get a couple of different quotes supporting your case and try and negotiate with them

and if thats no good tell them to stick it and see if they go to court

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
its over quoted because the bar does not need repainting

You may be a mechanic, but if you're not a panel beater, it's not really up to you to say how much the damage will cost to repair.

$300 isn't much.

I had someone reverse into my Ti in a car park (came out just in time to see it happen) it was mostly paint transfer, but the bar had a tiny squished flat spot, and the quote to fix it at a reputable place was almost $600

There is a fair amount of work involved in these sorts of repairs, it's not just a matter of "it'll buff right out", would you like it if someone hit your pride and joy and then expected you to get it fixed cheaply?

The "3 quotes" thing which people have mentioned is a bit of a crock too... it's their car, they can take it to any repairer of their choice.

If she doesn't agree with it, then she can refuse to pay.

The worst they can do is take you to court.... in which case she'll get stuck with paying their court fees and the $300

If the damage is as minor as you say, it won't be hard to prove that it wasn't possible to cause damage to the suspension.

I hope you took photos of the damage to both cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...