Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Rear Diff/axle/uni Joint/brake Conversion Into Rs4

CruiseLiner
 Share

Recommended Posts

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys well ive been getting a fair few PM's regarding the gtr diff conversion and change over to gtr axles, unijoints and brakes so heres a basic rundown for anyone interested in the work involved...

1. remove stagea diff, axles, rear hubs, coilovers.

2. put gtr diff internals into stagea diff housing so all mounts for attessa pumps are the same and it looks stock from the outside. the stagea and gtr diff housings are identical except the mounting points mentioned. i would take it to a diff shop once internals are installed and get them to check the tolerances on the gears so it doesnt clunk when on and off the throttle.

3. now the backing plates are different on gtr to stagea so its up to u which way u go, i know the gtr one has more capacity for betting cooling and also its aluminium and has fins on it . the gtr backplate just hits the rear x-member so u need to bend abit of the metal on the bottom of the x-member to allow clearance, its only touching by 3-4mm so its nuthin major to alter the x-member with some vice grips etc.

3. install gtr diff into the car

4. gtr axles are too short so they are useless, u will need a gts4 long side axle for the short side of the stagea (left and right axles are different lengths), and then another long side axle from a gts4 for the long side, but its still gonna be 40mm too short so u have to have it extended by a shop who specialises in that sort of thing. we actually did it at home with a welder and cut up one of the gtr axles and joined them where the unijoint area is closest to the diff, and i didnt think it would work or hold up to big launches, but now with 545hp at the wheels and about 8-10 8000rpm launches it is fine :)

5. u will need to use the gtr rear brake hubs as the splines on the gtr axles are different to stagea axles. these mount using all the stagea rear arms (all the gtr arms are too short). they all bolt up no problems, except the hicas mount on the hub u need to push the bush from the stagea hub into it (instead of the hicas balljoint bush). the bush is slightly small for the gtr hub so we used some shim metal around the outside of it to make it a tight fit. the stagea arm then bolts up as per normal.

6. the gtr brake rotors and hubs just bolt straight on and im 99% sure the stagea brake lines wont fit the gtr calipers as the fittings are different, so i used braided brake lines made up from a local shop.

7. your stagea coilovers wont fit on now as the bottom mountings are different and therefore u need gtr style coilovers (best to get 260rs ones as they are designed for the heavy weight of the rear end compared to gtr ones), i got the sydneykid coilovers so i just ordered gtr ones with a revalve suited for the stagea and they are fine, the top and bottoms both bolt up fine.

thats pretty much it from memory, and the only difficult part is the lengthening of the axle, but if a shop does it, it will be easy and not excessively expensive.

the drivers side axle is the one that needs lengthening!!!

thanks

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner
fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'll confirm point 6, the stagea rear callipers use a banjo,the (32) GTR callipers are a flared nut fitting. (32 GTR) fronts are the same deal,you need a custom line. I'm using a Z32 master cylinder,which gives a decent pedal. the std master is not sufficient.

Justin...

Edited by fergo308
darrinspencer Grand Master

darrinspencer

Posted
Posted
I'll confirm point 6, the stagea rear callipers use a banjo,the (32) GTR callipers are a flared nut fitting. (32 GTR) fronts are the same deal,you need a custom line. I'm using a Z32 master cylinder,which gives a decent pedal. the std master is not sufficient.

Justin...

I have just fitted a full set of R34 GTT front and rear brakes. Instead of buying more expensive custom lines, I used the factory R34 GTT rear brake line. It bolted up between the caliper and where it connects to the main body. I have also used the r34 booster and master as they look bigger than the Stagea.

captinsane Community Regular

captinsane

Posted
Posted
righto...so an entire GTR rear sub-frame will not fit because the track width (disk to dsk) is larger...correct?

bump...on topic...who can measure up both...i will try to measureup mine tomorrow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • GTSBoy
      Cleaning my wheels 😍

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
×
×
  • Create New...