Manual Stag Idle And Throttle Closed Issues With Auto Ecu

[Burns]

I’m having a few running and refinement issues with my manual converted S1

It has 172awkw on .7 bar with all the usual mods. If I run any more boost it just retards the timing and I get a very uneven power curve. It has an SAFC that I had tuned just after the manual conversion. When tuning it they leaned it out all through the rev range and maybe a little too much at idle. The tune gave a 40awkw power increase and massive fuel economy improvement. I was hoping it would stop it back firing and shooting flames but it still dose it.

On closed throttle down hills or coasting between 1500 and 2500 rpm I get a constant pop pop pop pop pop from the exhaust.

On up changes when giving it a bit I get a big kaboom with a bright flash out the back. It’s like I have a jihadi with a rocket launcher firing from my boot.

Since the tune, on cold start it also idles very rough. Which I think is because it is too lean, when it worms up a bit its fine.

The only thing I can think of that could be causing the popping and flames is some sort of ignition cut on closed throttle or the injectors not closing off fuel supply properly.

Any ideas?

I would like to be able to fix it without having to go to programmable management.

[CruiseLiner]

I’m having a few running and refinement issues with my manual converted S1

It has 172awkw on .7 bar with all the usual mods. If I run any more boost it just retards the timing and I get a very uneven power curve. It has an SAFC that I had tuned just after the manual conversion. When tuning it they leaned it out all through the rev range and maybe a little too much at idle. The tune gave a 40awkw power increase and massive fuel economy improvement. I was hoping it would stop it back firing and shooting flames but it still dose it.

On closed throttle down hills or coasting between 1500 and 2500 rpm I get a constant pop pop pop pop pop from the exhaust.

On up changes when giving it a bit I get a big kaboom with a bright flash out the back. It’s like I have a jihadi with a rocket launcher firing from my boot.

Since the tune, on cold start it also idles very rough. Which I think is because it is too lean, when it worms up a bit its fine.

The only thing I can think of that could be causing the popping and flames is some sort of ignition cut on closed throttle or the injectors not closing off fuel supply properly.

Any ideas?

I would like to be able to fix it without having to go to programmable management.

sudden rich mixture when u back off the throttle, thats what mine does and monster flames lol

must admit mines because of the cams i got, dont know why yours would do it

[Burns]

I have an adjustable cam pulley. The car has had some stuff done in Japan as well but I’m not sure what. The ECU has Japanese on it saying “Simulator test ok Boost to .8”

[CruiseLiner]

timing too advanced and causing it to fire when valves are still open maybe? hence fuel and spark = flame straight out exhuast

[GoldZilla]

I changed my plugs from Iridiums to Coppers, and it got rid of the cold-temp misfire and sluggishness straight away (it would run better when it's warm, but still not perfect), but the popping on over-run is still there, but apparently that's quite normal.

The copper plugs made a fair bit of difference, and at roughly $25, it's a good place to start before you go chasing replacement coil packs, etc. I checked my coil packs when they were out, and visually they looked fine - no cracks to be seen.

[Burns]

It sounds like it might because the timing is too advanced on the exhaust cam.

It’s not the plugs or coils. I’m running spit fire coils with iridiums. I did have a miss problem before I changed the coils and plugs so know what that’s like. The cold idle problem is like starting a carby car on a cold morning without a choke. I have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it going and the revs dive and peek between 200rpm and 1000rpm once it’s wormed up a little its smooth as.

It’s don’t think its running rich and moods shouldn’t make it richer with the throttle closed on the stock ECU.

Thanks for the ideas

[tRUkbOY]

The cold idle problem is like starting a carby car on a cold morning without a choke. I have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it going and the revs dive and peek between 200rpm and 1000rpm once it’s wormed up a little its smooth as.

Mine had a similiar problem, turned out to be the IAC valve & the 02 sensor. Cleaned the IAC out (actually I cleaned the throttle body at the same time) & unplugged the 02, fixed it right up. Later after I converted to manual I found it did the pop pop pop pop down hills etc & I could basically make it backfire when ever I wanted by giving it a rev on down changes...........loved it!!!!!! It would also do big floating flames out the back & the occasional backfire on up changes. I replaced the ECU & it fixed it for a while until the ECU re-learned itself.

Engine was stock apart from 3" exhaust, FMIC, Pod & HKS SSQV. The sad part is my RB26 doesn't do it, well it did while I had no exhaust but not anymore

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

My 260 does the same. dont mind it at all, flames are great! I have very little getting in the way from the turbos to the tip so that may be another reason.

[Burns]

Flames are all good fun until you’re accelerating out of a RBT, change into 3rd and kaboom there’s a huge orange flash and you see the cops diving for cover in the revision mirror.

The pop pop popedy pop starts to get annoying after a while too.

[mr manfringinsen]

If your BOV vents to atmosphere it may be drawing air through your map sensor which the ECU will supply extra fuel for. The result of this is unburnt fuel in the exhaust which ignites. ergo jihad.