Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you all for the encouragement and advice.

I like the white interior...but we'll see how easy it is to live with. The rear wing has been put back on so i'll see which I prefer (on or off).

Oh, and I do not beleive it to be a VSpecII.

While it has the brembo brakes strut braces, I'm sure the vspecII's didnt come out in '92.

The only remaining way I have is to check the codes printed on the attessa controller methinks....

To me, The brakes were the most important part of the VSpec.

I'll let you know how it goes!

Cheers

f

either way having the brakes is good!

the 33 gearbox would be quite a good thing to have, the clutch packs in them are electronically controlled as opposed to the hydrolic system in the 32, which makes it alot more responsive.

Ive often thought about getting a 33 gearbox for my 32 but im not sure what would be required to wire them up, and I have better things to do with my money

Id just like to add the following;

1. I have worked on that car

2. I have driven that car

3. I remember the day it was pulled from its container and loaded on to a flat bed

4. It used to be (in my mind) the cleanest GTR in Australia (hopefully still is, have not seen it in over 3 years)

5. I envy you, this is a beautiful car

I would love to see her again, please bring her to a Tuesday night dinner soon...

Cheers Col

Id just like to add the following;

1. I have worked on that car

2. I have driven that car

3. I remember the day it was pulled from its container and loaded on to a flat bed

4. It used to be (in my mind) the cleanest GTR in Australia (hopefully still is, have not seen it in over 3 years)

5. I envy you, this is a beautiful car

I would love to see her again, please bring her to a Tuesday night dinner soon...

Cheers Col

were you/are you in <3 ??

Col,

Tuesday night sure! When and where.....you might be able to clear up a couple of things for me....

Oh, by the way the experience has been good so far. The battery was a bit flat so some of the warning lights were coming on. Put another battery in and its been pretty nice......until you boot the loud pedal.......then the fury is unleashed!

Id just like to add the following;

1. I have worked on that car

2. I have driven that car

3. I remember the day it was pulled from its container and loaded on to a flat bed

4. It used to be (in my mind) the cleanest GTR in Australia (hopefully still is, have not seen it in over 3 years)

5. I envy you, this is a beautiful car

I would love to see her again, please bring her to a Tuesday night dinner soon...

Cheers Col

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...