Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

where do u get ur figures from ???

Ive known rbs to last into 300thou been modified, of course a head gasket will go etc... general maintence and wear and tear items ... it all depends how you drive it, do you flog it everywhere, do u regularly change oil, filters coolant ?

things to make the engine healthy ... keep things within limits, ensure all precautions have been taken and it will last. Drive sensibly on the roads also naturally.

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

I agree with everyone else here.. the life span of your motor is what you make it... high powered rb's with stock internals generally wont last as long as stockers... i've been told their good for around 250kw or there abouts (not sure but this is what my mechanic @ chasers told me)

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

Freebaggins daily r33 ran for much longer than 10months making 313rwkw on its stock bottom end and low 20psi running some sorted int gate gt3040 running a larger vlt style exh. housing that had been extrude honed.

But it was tuned by Shaun, so what can I say. :ninja: All in the tuning and how responsible the owners is to ensure it DOES NOT KNOCK! Which is the beauty of the PowerFC. Knock feeback.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

Which shows how stupid this thread is. Of course if you have two identical things but push one harder it will break first. However the thread isn't about which will break first but about how long one will break before the other. This of course can vary with all the many variables present in the real world. This is what I believe MANWHORE was trying to emphasise.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

Of which the stock ecu doesn't do above 4500rpm so well great, your protected through out peak torque which is most dangerous but what about the top end?

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

If my old man drove an rb I'm sure it would last at least 1 million km. He's had a starfire four sunbird since new, now with over 600,000 kms original motor original gearbox.

So I guess it comes down to how you drive the car. I f**ked the motor of an excellent condition vp commdore in under 10000kms, probably would have lasted ages too if didn't so many burnouts and grass skiing sessions.

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

There are no budget ECUs that do knock retard. PFC's knock warning (check engine light) is a useful feature, so are your ears. Ultimately an ECU will be quicker to react than your foot, but if the stock ECU ignores pinging at the top end you're largely back to square one anyway.

Razorsharp, spot on the money mate.

I do not argue like an old man or woman. In fact, I was not arguing at all. I was just merely pointing out that this thread is fairly useless. As others have said how long is a piece of string.

Yeah, sure. Of course an engine that is pushed more would put out more power. Hell, even driving plays an important factor in the life of an engine. If you drive one hard, it might last half as long as one driven easy.

What i'm trying to say is that there are many factors that can determine the life of an engine. Nothing lasts forever. But if you tune it safely, mod it sensibly, drive it sensible, service it well, it'll last long ENOUGH!

PS: kinks, I wasn't saying that what you said is impossible. I was saying, it's impossible to predict the life of an engine.

While I'm at it though The candle that burns twice as bright burns less than half as long - for engines that is.

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
    • Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of:   70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4   We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested:   94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4   There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same  or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.
×
×
  • Create New...