Pfc Cold Cranking Setup Help

[ike]

Just had my baby tuned by a SAU highly recommended tuner.

For a start he lied to me about his dyno which wasn't working and drove somewhere else (300k's over 3 days) to use someone elses dyno.

Then I demanded it back he reckons he still needs it overnight to finish it off to set up cold start cranking thingy in the morning where he says he only has a few second window to do it . This sounds a bit sus to me

Could someone enlighten me on what this means or is he just taking me for a ride.

He also installed my PFC + HC and boost control kit which was sloppy ie boost line draped over hot plenum and the MAP sensor was at a 45deg angle ,the book says it must be vertical or risk overboost.. Was going to install myself but couldn,t trace the lines to actuators under plenum and I thought, f’k the expense he may as well install as well and then tune it .

Needless to say it will not return to his F'kn workshop.

If I knew his rolling road was f'kd I would not have gone there . Think he just used it for a daily driver to impress his mates.

He handed it over with 8psi boost ( normal is 9psi I think on an r33 gtr) thinking I‘ll bring it back to get it wound up.

He will have tuned it for 15psi boost and saved the dat file to upload it next time I go not

Anyway I will chalk that one up to experience as we all get ripped off by experts now and again..

Have been getting in to the theory of tuning cars the modern way and using the PFC HC.

I am a marine engineer and work on and repair and operate all sorts of gear ( 65000kw diesels to 2kw diesels ,refrigeration, electrics plus all the other crap on ships ) I know my diesels but am quite green with tuning on cars .

The PFC threads is really good for me a great resource.

Some explanation on the cold cranking set up would go down well

I can easily wind up the boost to 14psi in steps and check all the parameters are safe on the monitor and trace maps but am reluctant to tamper with settings yet unless its knockin to much which it is not. .

Will AFR’s change with boost ? ie I guess it will when running open loop on the maps.

But when does it change from open loop to closed loop .

Cannot read the Japanese manual that came with it but have been translating bits and pieces into Japlish with google translator from PDFs. Very colourful speech.

Was thinking of installing a logable wide band before the catback on the collector some where rather than rely on the 2 narrowbands.

Just have to be careful due to heat as they get quite hot.

Have an old laptop as well so just need a dongle and datalogit software.

Then I will have a go.myself because I’m sick of being taken by sly pricks who do it behind your back.

Hope some one can shed some light on my questions.

Cheers and tables

Ike

And no I will say who it is .

Edited March 9, 2007 by ike

[paulr33]

hey ike

you shouldnt have to adjust the cold cranking out of the box

it should be fine

is there a specific problem you are trying to fix?

have you read the PFC faq (in my sig) ?

[ike]

hey ike

you shouldnt have to adjust the cold cranking out of the box

it should be fine

is there a specific problem you are trying to fix?

have you read the PFC faq (in my sig) ?

Hi Paulr33

No there isn't any problems at all it runs sweet he just reckons he has to do this cold cranking thing when its cold.

Are you telling me that out of the box its ok.

But whats the go with the AFR's they will change if I wind up the boost myself ??

Just lost confidence in this guy. Gave him 600 for what.

All I wanted was to up the boost and a good safe tune for longevity

Does it have to be retuned for higher boost.

Yeah I read all your threads theyre good

cheers

Ike

Edited March 9, 2007 by ike

[paulr33]

yeah the car should be tuned on whatever boost you are running

if it was tuned on say 7psi then you crank it to 12psi then the airflow will be different which means it will touch different cells, possibly untuned or incorrect AFRS. so yes in summary it should be tuned on whatever you plan to run.

the cold start on the FC is spot on out of the box, there is little need to tune it when the engine is cold on a cold day. as long as the self learn idle is done properly and it idles ok, then thats all u need to do. the water correction ramp will take care of cold start operation by default

[ike]

yeah the car should be tuned on whatever boost you are running

if it was tuned on say 7psi then you crank it to 12psi then the airflow will be different which means it will touch different cells, possibly untuned or incorrect AFRS. so yes in summary it should be tuned on whatever you plan to run.

the cold start on the FC is spot on out of the box, there is little need to tune it when the engine is cold on a cold day. as long as the self learn idle is done properly and it idles ok, then thats all u need to do. the water correction ramp will take care of cold start operation by default

Thanks Paulr33 for your knowledge and clearing that up for me

I will get it sorted out.

[seeyagtr]

I have been involved with several RB26 tunes, and have not had a problem with the cold start. You can look at the cranking timming and check the fuel mixtures, but if your closed loop is working that no biggy.

It is probly a good idea to check the fuel at full boost that you intend to run, If you are only going to run 14 psi that should be safe, just keep an eye on your knock levels when you do ( try to keep them under 40)

[al_r33]

What company was it? PM me if you dont want to post it here.

Cheers

[ike]

I have been involved with several RB26 tunes, and have not had a problem with the cold start. You can look at the cranking timming and check the fuel mixtures, but if your closed loop is working that no biggy.

It is probly a good idea to check the fuel at full boost that you intend to run, If you are only going to run 14 psi that should be safe, just keep an eye on your knock levels when you do ( try to keep them under 40)

Hey seeyagtr

When does close loop initiate when cruising ? and revert to maps when the throttle is varied or what?

I am heading out into Bass strait at the moment so my signal fading.

Back on Monday.

cheers

Edited March 9, 2007 by ike

[paulr33]

closed loop is used for cruise fuel economy

its not used for on load operation or full load

its merely to save fuel and by default aims for 14.7 aFR

(dont kick the baby)

[ike]

What company was it? PM me if you dont want to post it here.

Cheers

I will get into trouble eh.

But people should know about shady operators

Wouldn't like anyone else to be f'kd over thats for sure

Will PM you.

Edited March 9, 2007 by ike