Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

just got done last night for a few things including noise and emission test,

i know my car will not pass for sure, this is a list of whats on it

its an r33 with an F-con V

an Evc

full exhaust from turbo

a pod and a BOV

i talked to others and they suggested

to put a stock exhaust, change the pod to stock, change the bov, leave the boost off, run it on normal unleadedand and change the spark plug to the normal NGK

any one sugest anything else or any of these will not make any difference.

am sure someone had to go through this before what did you do, any help is very much appreciated.

thankx in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159957-to-pass-an-emission-test/
Share on other sites

hey dude, i just did an emissions test for epa, i failed it, i had a turboback exhuast system, even with the silcencer i failed it cause dey wanted me to weld it on,

but if u weld it u loose power, so what i did was i changed the muffler and flange not exactly sure what the mechanic did but the made it quieter,

but ive lost power, but when i pass the test ill put my old exhaust back on, and i had a blow off valve n i failed that as well, just put ur old 1 back on

if u hav it, i think its gota be plumback, i have a pod filter that was fine, they dont look in to mods or anything, just anythign that causes pollution

I gone done for similiar things in the past too....at the end of the day, it's just not worth it... so much money into it, and in the end you have DE-MOD... but I guess, the law is the law...

In your situation, I recommend that you take off the BOV and put on a plumback.... then change the Air filter back to stock... and finally (if you have a front mounted intercooler), get some mesh and cover it up!

Good luck mate.

if u have FMIC is ok. u just change standard BOV, Stock air box, standard exhaust. one of my custermer got done and the p**s ask him to took the kick panel off n check whether is standard ecu or aftermarket. They also took pics of the EPA.

Good Luck Mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...