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Hi Everyone,

Please please help:

Story goes like this. I have an R33 gts-t 96 model.

All runs have been done on the same dyno to keep accurate runs.

Went to a dyno day (UniGroup) and achieved a healthy 160 rwkw's from the following mods:

Boost = 8.5 psi

FMIC

Air filter

oil/Air seperator

Standard exhaust

Very smooth power curve (strong in torque) and very nice Air/Fuel ratios for a stock ECU.

So next stage was I installed:

- 3" dump + front pipe (one piece)

- 3" cat back exhaust

- High flow cat

- 17x9" rims (255 on the back)

- Cold air partition

Went back to go for a dyno run, but at the same time had the timming checked.. Timming all good except when everything went back together I was missing one cylinder... WTF.... One of the electrical plugs got disconnected from 5th Cylinder.. Anyways fixed it up and went to do a power run and the car was all over the place....(I'm sure the ECU caused this from the problem with the 5th cylinder)

Drove around for a few days and reset the ECU. From this point I noticed a very BIG flat spot arount 5000 - 6300 RPM..

Any ways went back to the dyno and achieved a very S%$T result. (very bad fuel ratios and timming being retarded big time)

As you can see there is a very big power loss.. The guys seems to think it is the ECU and it will get better.

Any one have any suggestions as to what this problem is?

Ps. Not ready to get an full comuter yet..

Cheers

Rob

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It could well be the stock ECU crapping itself and pulling timing off.

The R33 ECU's tend to get very confused when you start to play around with the flow (inlet, exhaust and boost increases), unless your lucky enouhg to have a 'freak' ECU...

All I can suggest is doulbe check everything like the plugs and connectors, look for boost leaks, fuel presure, fuel filter etc, and see if everything is OK. You might of had a bad batch of fuel too ??

If it is all OK, then you've just got the same problem that I and a heap of other blokes have got with their R33 :P

Damn stock ECU.....

J

Thanks for your responses guys.

Yeah, I'm hoping (fingers crossed) it was some bad fuel...

I filled the tank up and threw in some octane booster and it felt a fair bit better (still had a slight hesitation up high)..

Bloody well have to take it back to the Dyno to check tho....

Power FC is definately in the works... (have to buy a dog first haha).

So what type of power could you expect from adding a Power FC?

190-200 rwkw's????

Rgrds

Rob

Originally posted by muffas 180

They are selling second hand ones for $1400 with hand controllers. New ones are over $2000.

Michael...

Well last weekend I priced one from Nengun and the price after currency conversion was $1546 to be exact.

:D

$2000 with hand controller from nengun is not correct, MRK25T recently received his and paid around the price that I calculated delivered to his door.

Rob,

When I had my car dynoed at C & V I hit 160kw on the nose as we expected. The dyno also showed up a bit flat spot after increasing boost where the timing was retarding.

C & V told me the addition of a power FC should see the car at very close to 200rwkw

Pretty much, im yet to find any decent professional japanese online setup. The best i have found is www.greenline.jp (as far as webpage layout and professionalism).

Edit: And working for an ISP i see alot of dodgy websites, www.greenline.jp have the most professional website (c'mon nengun get your act together for us noobies who dont know what we are after). Nengun seems to have good prices (although greenline are even with him) and takiaira or whatever it is has heeeaps of products and plenty of info just the worst website design i have seen (unless you like playing around with a dozen popup windows).

Seriously you jap guys get ur acts together, spend $500 of ur profit from us guys and build a damn decent website and you watch your sales increase by 1000%.

Hi Robo, my experience would tell me that the new exhaust has increased the boost and the ECU is now detecting excessive boost. The overboost protection kicks in and retards the timing and richens up the mixtures. You need a "boost cut defeater", but by the time you add that to a speed limit defeater and an A/F ratio piggy back and an ignition piggy back the total ends up more than a PFC.

Hope that helps

Thanks for the info SydneKid,

It was only running like 10-11 psi....

I never felt the flat spot before the dyno run (with the 3" exhaust) and sometimes ran 12-13 psi...

I really have no idea...

Question regarding the Power FC:

- If I fit an Power FC will I have all the standard features that are in the factory ECU?

- Will the Power FC have a Knock detection system in it? If so will it retart timing like the factory ECU does?

- Is there anything else I should know about the Power FC before I buy it?

Thanks for the info.

Regards

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