Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

doing research for rebuild atm, I found tomei stroker kit, but don't really understand what they are asking if anyone can explain..

the kit includes

- Forged 8 counter crankshaft

- Forged piston kit

- Forged H section connecting rod

- Oil Jet Spacer

here are the options I don't get

option between

-Bore 86.5mm

-Bore 87mm

-Bore 87.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 86.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 87mm

-cooling channel Bore 87.5mm

-RB 28 titanium coat (top ring)

what is a cooling channel? I thought in Engineering shop the engine block is bore into the diameter of the piston? They number the piston for the specific cylinder for accuracy? so what's the point of choosing bore diameter? more torque?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159966-rb25-to-rb28-tomei-stroker-kit/
Share on other sites

doing research for rebuild atm, I found tomei stroker kit, but don't really understand what they are asking if anyone can explain..

the kit includes

- Forged 8 counter crankshaft

- Forged piston kit

- Forged H section connecting rod

- Oil Jet Spacer

here are the options I don't get

option between

-Bore 86.5mm

-Bore 87mm

-Bore 87.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 86.5mm

-cooling channel Bore 87mm

-cooling channel Bore 87.5mm

-RB 28 titanium coat (top ring)

what is a cooling channel? I thought in Engineering shop the engine block is bore into the diameter of the piston? They number the piston for the specific cylinder for accuracy? so what's the point of choosing bore diameter? more torque?

choosing the bore: more capacity = more power. also, it gives you scope for future rebuilds, like getting the 86.5 now, if you ned a rebuild later, you can bore it out to 87, not that this is a realistic thing IMO

cooling channel, i have no idea, but im guessing its size depends on what piston bore you get, to maintain a certain thickness between it and the nearest cylender. might be a restrictor for the cooling system somewhere?

might i ask how much this is costing you roughly, and why you didnt just get a local RB30 built up?

I was thinking about power and torque differnece as well but I don't believe it myselft....the gap between the sizes is 0.5mm, I don't think there'll be much difference...

the kit alone cost $7.5 k but these are Jun so kinda expected....I think fitting and bore from 6-7k.. I have not done this yet, collecting info...there is the cheaper option of using CP or arias stuff...I think those cost about $5k includes N1 oil pump head studs...

I'm going to stick with RB25 no particular reason actually just personally think there's more work involved, more challenging...

personly i would have gone the RB30DETset up cause u have bigger capacity = more tourque and power, just use u'r RB25 head with or with out VCT and work that would cost a lot less and be as relierble (i.e put forgys in it).

so is that those indented shape at the sides of the pistons?

Aorry, the kit is actually Tomei.. there is a $1k price difference between the normal and hte cooling channel one....do you think it's worth the money... How bout CP kits? anyone know how big cc after bore?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...