Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea i just bought my new car today!!! 98 skyline r34 gt-t...not bought as a perfect car but wot is these days

just the airbag light on the dash is continiously flashing and not quite sure of what that means. would anyone know how to fix it? it has the factory steering wheel on it which has the standard airbag as well

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160154-air-bag-light-on-dash/
Share on other sites

If the R34's are the same as the R33's, sometime the airbag light will flash if the battery has been disconnected.

To reset it, the procedure on the R33's was to press the driver door switch (for the interior light) seven time within 10 seconds of turning the ignition on - sounds wierd I know, but it works on the R33's lol

If it keeps flashing it could be two things - the reset procedure is different on the R34's, or something is stuffed :D

J

when u open and close your drivers door the interior light goes on or off, the bottom sil where your scuff plate iss near the rear door hinges will have a little switch with a rubber cover on it, pushing it in and out turns the interior light on and off. Exactly the same as your fridge door.

I think thats what he was refering to?

  • 7 months later...

hey guys... i just tried this trick and it worked!!!!!!!!!

this was really buggin me! I thought my car had been in an accident and the airbags weren't replaced haha.

so a quick question: if there really is a fault, we could expect this little reset process to not have any effect? ie the airbag light would continue flashing?

Anyone know what the various flashing patterns etc indicate? Some people are reporting their light just stays constantly on.

Edited by ak_stylez
  • 3 weeks later...

I had the same issue on my 89 Stagea. I fixed it by Holding down the door light switch, turning the ignition to ON, then releasing and pressing the button 5 times. I turned the ignition off, then on again, and it worked. So I suppose 7 or 10 or more would work as well.

  • 3 months later...

Yes if theres actually an error it would continue flashing once you tried to restart your car

your resetting the SRS computer by doing this... the steering wheel may of been taken off at some stage or someone shorted one of the SRS wires

Southern Highlands NSW.

As the car has been sitting around for the last 5 months and I have been working on it alot to get it ready for the blue slip the battery has been going flat. I have had to jumpstart it a fair few times in the last few weeks, could this be the cause of the problem?

I know taking the car to the dealership sounds like the best soultion yet Im a little worried in driving the car 20mins to nissan seeing as its unregistered.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
I can fix it for u $50 the proper way i got the machine that fixes it will cost u $70 i come to u , Machine cost me $12k, also can clear any other faults or codes if you want , all for one price but i dont travel out of sydney. Also resets the airbag module so in case you do get in an accident your airbag will deploy if interested let me know . My email is [email protected]

Can you reset the SRS airbag light prob on an S2 R33 GTS25T with a PFC ?

Cheers A .

dont know who thought of this trick...

but it works brilliantly...

just a few seconds and POW! no more annoying blinking AIRBAG light!

thanks to who ever who thought about this trick!

cheers! :(:P this one is for you!

Edited by lcy
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

You guys are absolutely magic! I just got my car back after having all my mods done (4 weeks of not being started), and we had to jump start

the car. The air bag light came on flashing while driving.

Put up with it for a few days, and then found this on SAU! You guys are absolute champions!

My car is also a S2 R33.

Thanks for the fix!

Jared

  • 1 month later...

Thanks guys, I remember why I joined SAU!!

I have booked myself in with Nissan have this problem fixed next week after having the car of the road for ages, but thought I should try something else.

Sure enough this trick worked. Had to do it a couple of times first time I got it to work it went from flashing fast to slow & then after the second attempt it went out all together

Going to call Nissan tomorrow & tell them where to stick it (I spent over $3k in parts & they were still going to charge me $66 for 2 minutes work!)

Cheers,

Jared

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...