Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering whether power steering resevoirs need to breath to avoid vaccum??

i've installed a custom one and the previous owner (which i have no reason to doubt) is telling me it wasnt needed, yet i think its caused a leak with my power steering pump.

the standard ones obviously breath as many people know due to their leaking and the one i have has a screw on lid. any ideas? i've got no issue about drilling a 1mm in the lid which is what im thinking about doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160162-power-steering-resevoir/
Share on other sites

Not sealed? ;)

Which engine is this on?

If the PS pump has crapped out, putting a hole in the lid won't fix the problem.

I think you'll find the reason that so many people experience issues with leaking, is because most people are still running the original hoses, which have understandably perished over time.

However, I'm always happy for people to prove me wrong, it's all in the interest of learning :O

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

Edited by silver gts-t

I know bugger all about the RB20, (can't be too different from the other RB's) but from watching everyone elses issues, I'd say that the leak was caused simply by age.

If the original lid had a dodgy seal, it wouldn't have been creating the type of pressure that it should have been, and as soon as it was under the proper amount of pressure it's just gone "BLEH"

(If that makes sense)

I'll stop with the guesswork now, and leave it to someone who knows their stuff >_<

The power steering system should be only pressurised between the pump and the solenoid on the steering rack.

If the entire system was pressurised then you wouldnt be able to open the lid to top it up without it releasing the pressure and spraying fluid everywhere, in addition to this a perished hose would split and the offending leak would be a spray instead of a simple weeping of a small amount of fluid.

i cant say 100% that the use of a vent in the resevoir is what is required here only that the assumption of the system being completely pressurised does not seem correct.

Is it only when you are on the track and doing fast cornering etc? becuase i have heard, and im not 100 % on this, that people put a sock over their reservoir to avoid leaks, aslong as the leaks arent coming out of any of the lines or rack, or pump, then it isnt anyhting major

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :wave:

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

I think it would, you would just have to increase the amount of fluid in the system.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :laugh:

there was no tone at all, it was a typed question.

i know that it was the most probable cause as i previously said here "i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight caused the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed"

i was just asking for opinion as there maybe something else to the whole system that i may have missed.

also would appreciate it if you didnt pressume my tone :)

  • 3 months later...

Hi Guys, need advice on this problem.

I recently fixed a leak power steering hose on the top of the pump couple of weeks ago. The warning sound appeared everytime when started cold. Quite a comprehensive job as the steering rack had to be remove. Anyway after replacing with a 2nd hand part (still in good condition) but handling still suffer as it was harder turning left than on the right. After 3 weeks and still figuring out whether the alignment shop did a proper job, i found the the cap opened (half tilted) with no fluid down to the white filter in the reservoir. But there was fluid around the reservoir and the hose behind the power steering pump (a clamp is used to tighten it).

1) Is there air bubble or pressure pushing the lit up?

2) The clamp may not be tighten properly that air has got into the system?

3) The power steering pump needs to be changed?

Appreciate everyone's feedback.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!
    • Wanting to avoid this if possible but kinda looking like I may not have a choice 😭
    • Ok awesome thank you. Just wanted to have them in case I can find some and need to compare part numbers!
    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
×
×
  • Create New...