Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY boys & girls

long story short.. i need a new engine... my car had an rb20det but yeah it died.. should i get another one.. for about $1000 or sh0uld i get an rb25det? they are newer, bigger & better lol ect.. how much more would i have to pay? $2500 for the rb25?.. has anyone got an rb25 for sale? :laugh: would it go in fine? no problems? :w00t:

and another thing.. i have about.. $3500 BUDGET :ninja: thats for the engine and install ..and prolly one of those major services ect. like timing belt and the oil and fluid top ups ect :rofl: lol i would shout u guys a carton and a good time if u wanted to meet up somwhere and do it all :laugh: i need to get in the circle of LOVE!

im lost without my r324door </3

haha does anyone have a flat bet tow trucK? ... just putting it out there :)

LUB JEZ <o/

Edited by 32JEZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160327-rb20-or-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

following on from the PM's, I would recommend the Rb25 but not sure of whats needed in the gearbox department whether it bolts straight on or not.

3500 budget for a rb25?

nope... keep walking... you would ( while its open) replace any worn parts etc on the engine and possibly do the clutch at the same time ( since its all open)

for a rb25 ( + the ecu and wiring loom since the putahs are different) i would be looking at an upwards of 5000-15000

I got a few places to put a quote for me when i was thinking of putting an RB20//25 into my silvia and they broke down what needed to be done and what is reccomended..

they were not to far off each other and yah.. cheapest was 5000 and the most expensive was 15000 ( 15,000 was a complete rebuild + "bullet proofing" + after market gear)

So with your price range get an RB20 and do it right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160327-rb20-or-rb25/#findComment-2977750
Share on other sites

3500 budget for a rb25?

nope... keep walking... you would ( while its open) replace any worn parts etc on the engine and possibly do the clutch at the same time ( since its all open)

for a rb25 ( + the ecu and wiring loom since the putahs are different) i would be looking at an upwards of 5000-15000

I got a few places to put a quote for me when i was thinking of putting an RB20//25 into my silvia and they broke down what needed to be done and what is reccomended..

they were not to far off each other and yah.. cheapest was 5000 and the most expensive was 15000 ( 15,000 was a complete rebuild + "bullet proofing" + after market gear)

So with your price range get an RB20 and do it right.

+ 1. normally all the wreckers sale for 5G.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160327-rb20-or-rb25/#findComment-2978280
Share on other sites

I dont know much about the price ranges and acually bolting in the Rb25 but by the sounds of it, if you get a new RB20 and luckily you'll do it right and have some exra dosh over to get some nice upgrades.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160327-rb20-or-rb25/#findComment-2978308
Share on other sites

stoking a 20 to a 24 is more effort than it's worth and it's not cheap anyway! With your budget, just stick to putting in a 20 again. You're going to have to pay someone to take it out, someone to put it all back in....and depending on where you go you'll use up your budget quicker than you probably think. Remeber he's not doing any of this himself....I assume? If you're LUCKY you'll have a bit of left over money for some bolt ons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160327-rb20-or-rb25/#findComment-2978673
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...