Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i been reading a lot of the topics lately and so far 2 of my 3 questions have been answered. My last question is I'm looking to buy a GT-T34 a manual or i get a auto and convert to manual later on. Does anyone have any idea how much it cost for a conversion or am i better off buying a manual straight off.

It's the two 34's for sale on excite autos that i'm debating with.

Automatic GT-T34 - $22,900

Manual GT-T34 - $25,900

Can anyone also tell me is it a good deal to buy either of the two 34's.

Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160362-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

hey mate go get the manual it will save you money.

i have a 31 which is diffrent to the 34 but the same pricerple apply.

first you will have to find a manual kit. i.e box fly wheel alternator clutch peddle brake peddle all that stuff. except to pay $800 for a r31 kit. then you may have to get a new clutch or the box rebuild then hence will cost more (box apx $1000) clutch depends on which one u get.

u will then have to find out what has to be done and what has to be bloked of (i.e r31 have to loop the nutral switch).

and lasterly ARE u going to do the convertion or is a merchanic as this is a very labor intensive job. exspect 2-3 day if u know what your doing.

hope this helps.

brentt

thanks for that, help appreciated. has anyone seen the manual gt-t34 on excite autos site? if you have you reckon its worth buying? or anywhere where i can pick up a manual gt-t34 that is in good running condition?

Edited by skyline[32]
thanks for that, help appreciated. has anyone seen the manual gt-t34 on excite autos site? if you have you reckon its worth buying? or anywhere where i can pick up a manual gt-t34 that is in good running condition?

Can you post a link to it?

Would make it a lot easier to give an opinion on it.

And as mentioned above, dont even consider getting the auto and converting it to manual..... :glare: at the thought of it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...