She Wont Start :(

[BrianEng]

Ok, so Ive been on a local skyline board and would like a few more opinions.....so Ill ask you guys down under for a hand!!

Ill paste the posts Ive made from the other board here.

All electrical measurements were done with the wrong resistors installed. I just installed the proper 10w10ohm resistors and it still wont start. Any clues on what I should be lookin for??

Hey guys

Well, I decided to light her up tonite, and after checking everything I could think of, it wont start. I did do a few mods since the last time I started it. Its an RB20 in an S13. I put an RB25 turbo on it and replaced all the gaskets. Never disconnected the O2 sensor.

I did put GTR injectors, and wired up some 10w10a resistors on each line before the injectors as per the sticky by Matt. I didnt have them flow tested, but I assume unfortunately that they are fine. I did go with a chipped ECU I bought from someone in the states. It was tuned by EO Performance. The ECU flashes a cool Code 55.

There is gas to the stock FPR and the Walbro is definitely pumping. I did rearrange my homemade FMIC. My AVC-R for some reason shows 0 with igniton, and only goes to about -20 mmHg when cranking. I dont recall what it used to do because I never payed attention to it.

I do hear a few clicking sounds, like relays, near the ABS actuator and windshield wiper motor on the passenger side, but I wouldnt suspect that to cause not starting.

I checked vaccum lines and didnt notice anything not connected. It was way to cold to give it a good check, even the garage was like so cold and its insulated. Any ideas?

Thanks!

I'm also leaning towards injectors also, since its the only part I changed that would possibly have an effect on starting. Im pretty sure the ECU is fine, Ill take out a plug and coilpack and ground it to the block and check for a spark, and Im not overly comforatble taking the CAS off since I dont wanna fudge anything else up. I will also check for injector ticking during cranking though.

Im going to eat dinner and take a hot shower before I go outside to work on it again. Ill report back a lil' later once I know a bit more.

I seem to recall taking apart the things under the TB area and recall one spot on the TB that has a mini bung on it facing the cabin that I couldnt find a hose for.

When turning the CAS, does it have to go back in the exact same way and postition as you took it out, Im assuming yes.

Ohh and the ECU is reprogrammed for the 440cc injectors on Stock MAF.

Anywhoo, more to follow.

Thanks

As a second way I think of diagnosing the fuel/spark issue was I got my dad to crank it over while I listened for the ticking....but it was absent or my hearing sucks.

I then proceeded to take off out my No. 1 coilpack and remove the spark plug. It was dry, and didnt smell like gas. I thought it should.

There is no odor it the exhaust that I could notice. The resistance showed 0.9ohms on the No.1 coilpack. I didnt test the rest.

The resistor pieces were from Curcuit City. The were 10ohm10w resistors. They looked like green cylinders about an inch or so long, and no thicker than 0.7cm and had to metal pieces comming out of them. IIRC, I didnt wire them to the black ground wires for the injectors, I believe I used the other one. (Not sure of the colour)

If it was a fuel delivery problem, would it be more likely the ECU, injectors, or in the wiring of the resistors to the injectors.

I will try and check the resistance on the injectors tommororw, its supposed to be nice and warm What should the resistance be on them?

On a side note, where does the line comming off the FPR and the manifold go to?

Thanks!

I do not have an osciliscope to check the pulses. It really is a PITA to get to injectors 4-6 so I did inspection at the Midpoint harness.

Injector 1:

Resistance on Injector: 2.1ohm

Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V

Injector 2:

Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm

Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V

Injector 3:

Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm

Pin 2 Voltage: 11.6V

Measured at RB20 MId-Harness for Injectors 4,5,6.

Voltage Measurements were 11.5V across pin 3 and 4,5,6.

I think thats all the measurements I took looking at my scrap paper. If you need more info just LMK.

Thanks!

Suggested to me by a friend was to run the stock ECU in hopes of determining if the ECU is operating correctly. Using the stock ECU, I still get no gas to the plugs.

Should I just buy new injectors with the right impedence, remove the resistors, resolder the wires and try?

[SkyGts4]

It's either you've not soldered one of the wires properly( resistor\gtr setup), so its probably worth double checking. Other wise it could be your ecu, you could get a mod chip programmed for your setup from ebay for $45.0 & get someone to install a eprom socket into a your spare factory ecu, the ecu you've got at the moment could be dodgy?. Also check your spark plugs they could be fouled up. Triple check for air leaks or blockages. Have a look at your AFM, could do with a clean....

[SkyGts4]

Does your car actually turnover or does it just click when trying to start her?

[CEF11E]

sounds like a dodgy remap. I have gtr injectors in my rb20 with resistors and it runs fine infact like factory. I remapped the ecu myself but you will find even with the factory map designed to run 270cc injectors the car will start with the gtr items in there clouds of black somke and you couldn't drive it but it will run.

Try plugging in your factory ecu and seeing if it will run, if it does you know your injector wiring is correct. if it will not run your wiring is incorrect

[Rancher]

Is the crank timing right?

are the injector plugs in right?

When you turn your ignition on, can you hear your fuel pump prime?

The line from the manifold goes to a plug on top of the FPR, like, right under neath the manifold. Can miss it.

Have you got the fuel lines on the right way? The line into the fuel rail should be at the bottom, and the return line should come off the FPR.

Try those things, its something really simple. Like no fuse for the fuel pump or something.

[BrianEng]

Yea sorry there were similar questions from the other guys. To recap...Yes there is fuel to the rail. I can feel it pressurizing right at the little like that is infront of the FPR. There are no air leaks and Ive tripple checked that. The rpms go to about 350or so when trying to crank. There is no gunk or anything on the plugs, and the tips look nice and sharp. They look like theyve been through some use but they are less than 6 months old.

The resistors are soldered in there good, and the all measured 10ohm resistance, so this time I know thats right. Like I said earlier the injectors all get about 2ohm resistance across them all. The harness is intact from the injectors to the ECU, and they all have 12v.

[Craved]

are the injectors pulsing? need an LED test light to check that they are earthing out

have you pulled a ignitor and plug out and crank it to confirm it sparking? if it is, get a timing light and make sure the CAS is setup for the correct timing - 15BTDC i believe

[Chigga311]

Do you have the FSM???

If not GET IT!!!

The best book you'll ever get.

I had the same prob with my S13/rb20 but I had a whole bunch of wiring problems.

Also check if the CAS is working.

Take the Plug out of the motor put them in the coils and groud them.

The pull the CAS out with the key in the ON position and spin it.

Or just have a friend crank the motor and watch for sequential spark.

Check out- www.nicoclub.com

In the RB section

There are other guys that may be able to help you out

[BrianEng]

Yea I have the FSM and am tryin to find the parts that I need. Ive been puttin off pullin the CAS out since I have to pull the rad too...ands thats a bitch. Ill double check for spark but as of last year when I stored it in December it was fine. Maybe the last few months changed that, Ill double check.

Would I hook up the led test light to the ground at the ecu?