Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

car's been running fine (although idle aways sat up at 1000 :happy:) anyway today driving to work I got a few kilometers down the road and pulled up to some lights and the idle dropped down to 1500 or so instead of the usual 1000. For the rest of the trip it stayed at 1500 idle. When I drove back home this afternoon it started up and idled fine however again after the car warmed up the idle went back to 1500. Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160399-rb26-high-idle-after-cold-start/
Share on other sites

So you start the car of a morning, and it idles at 1000RPM when cold.

THEN

Once warm it USED to idle around 750RPM? but now it's idling at around 1500RPM?

By the sounds of things, as the metals are warming up, they're expanding, which can usually BLOCK air leaks, but it might be causing one for you.

Check for vac leaks.

Couple of things.

1)TPS not set correectly, i assume GTRs have them aswell

2)Water temp sensor bugared

3)Cold Start Valve not closing

4)First Idle Controll Device, FICD, solenoid, not working (as is the case in my car)

5)A vacuume leak somewhere.

Yeah I thought it was the throttles however by reving the car around a bitter and playing with the throttle nothing seems to be wrong, futher the idle is very reliable at 1500. It hasn't been a progressive change.. it just happened yesterday while driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking for a S2 front grill for an R34 GT/GTT Doesn’t have to be in excellent condition as I’m looking to paint it. Would preferred if the clips were around.    The $500 this marketplace guy is asking sounds ridiculous in my opinion. 
    • Nah, just take the other one off too 
    • A mini mini-gun.
    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
×
×
  • Create New...