Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If they didn't get a roadworthy done when you bought it, the car would not have had a legit safety cert, and therefore it was illegal to sell or advertise for sale.

Just to expand on that, a car can be sold without a safety certicicate but must be sold unregistered as-is. Obviously if they are trying to sort out that issue now, then they are very dodgy and sold it illegaly. Possibly try to get Qld Transport onto them, as they could be up for some big fines.

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I spoke to qld transport they dont no how it was registered. then said it was registered and thats that

Dude get in there and start bustin heads. I agree with what has been said already. The absentee has either broken or wrecked it and they are trying to cover the fact.

My god this is very scary to hear....i guess doing the backgroud work before buying really helps....any hope you get it back...and its obviously the guy is not on holiday. he must have had a small altercation with the car....and try to fix up ASAP...

Can you Plz...PM me the place....Just wanted to know...so i can keep well away....and WORD of Mouth PEOPLE....make sure not another liner goes near !!!!..

You have just scared the hell out of me, I dropped my car off to the dealer today to fix some issues that should not have passed roadworthy. Luckily my dealer isn't in springwood, Looks like I will be keeping alot of contact with them to find out whats going on with my car.

please pm me the details I maybe able to help as I have a family member working for QLD transport. Other than that demand car by monday or money back as that is completly unacceptable.

If the car is a dodgey maybe thats just what they want her to do. :laugh:

sad to hear that amy.. humm whats the name of the yard or the addy if u could PM me that i shall keep a eye out for the car with those wheels and kit on as they might even change the plates + sticker .. sounds like they are playing with you .. i hope this gets sorted out for u

Firstlly;

That blows so bad, I have not seem something like this in a long time. I feel really bad for you and hope your venting on us helps.

Secondlly;

"Today Tonight" or "A Current Affair" will track it down for free...

I'd report it stolen anyway hey, go down there with the police report or whatever. That should fire them up a bit to get it back. Then work at ways to get the placed closed down or something until your car is recovered.

Not good tho. Deadset next car I buy its going to be new. And Im going to be down the docks when it rocks up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...