Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i highly recommend the blue point lowe rider if u got a low car, but they cost bout $500

....or you could save $450 and buy the cheapo jack and a couple of bricks.

Stick the bricks in front (or behind) the wheels, (depending which end you want to jack up) then drive onto the bricks to slide the jack under :blink:

i highly recommend the blue point lowe rider if u got a low car, but they cost bout $500

totally agree with you there. about 522. blue point long chassis low service jack.

The problem wih those shitty little 30 ones, is they don't go high enough, they have very small cups, and the thing is just so damn flimsy.

If you hvae to go for a cheap one, at least go for one of those 2000-2500 kg ones for abour 150-200$.

they're much stronger, have much larger cups, and are much more solid.

I still don't like those 150-200 ones though, because they're shit. The motion to lower the car is just so crude. I've got one, and I hate it.

When I get the money, i'm going for the bluepoint. either that, or the smaller blue point on - the 'beast' for $438

In all honesty i don't see the need for a $500 jack. Thats money that can be better spent elsewhere.

A small cheapie 1T capable jack and some stands is more than enough for basic servicing, and just about anything else you want to do under the car. As it's small you can fit it under the car even if it's pretty low and you don't need a lot of space for the long handles alot of the race type jacks have (any one with a small single car garage will know what i'm talking about here)

The only time it's not up to the task is if you want the get the car up high enough to swap a gear box. Ramps or a bigger jack and more space is needed then.

I bought this jack from ebay. The best $250 I spent.

This jack is great for low cars and is heavy duty enough to hold the car up for hours.

Ditto - bought a similar one in blue from a guy in Adelaide.

Great unit but I still need to use some blocks to lift the GTR to make it easier to lift at the front.

Don't scimp on the jack - I have acheap 1.5T trolley jack that wasn't up to it.

Got any links to these Blu point jacks ??

never see the long ones in shops i go to .. my mech has one that is about 60mm at the cup.

need something like this for all the work i do on my cars -- cant wait to have a 4 or 5 pump full lift jack rather thana cheapie $40 one that takess 20+ pumps to full lift which is still too low.

See, the thing that people don't realise, is that - the snap on low profile long chassis jack isn't good just because it's low.

Any small $30 shit jack from autobarn will fit under. The problem with those little ones, is they're shit. they're so flimsy. If you use one, firstly, they dont' jack very high, and secondly, if you lean on the car slightly, you'll see how flimsy it is. Try jacking your car up by the cross member with one of those.

The big 2000kg-2500kg jacks are bigger and stronger. Hwoever, the cheap ones ($200ish) are shit. I have one of these at home. IT's hard to let the car down slowly. It seems to drop it. hell, if you want a cheap jack, you can that one if you like.

Snap on - quality. You can let the car down nice and slow. The metal is nice and solid, big strong welds etc.

  • 1 month later...

Them super cheap jacks are no good they are rated at 1.5 tonnes a skyline is 1.4 to 1.6 , If u want to see a jack break after approx 20 lifts get one. I hope it doesn`t break when u are under the car. Buy the best jack u can afford and it will be with u the rest of your life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more.    Some items that will save you money  - plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.   -Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever.    Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.          
    • Welcome back to the scene! Godzilla Motorsports were well regarded back in the day.  My GT-R had work done there prior to my ownership.   SRS (Street Race Solutions) in Toowoomba worth a look.  They've built some pretty wild Skylines. Their YouTube channel is comedic to watch!  I'm sure they're all on the glass BBQ but they get shit done! 🤣
    • Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37. There probably aren't too many people around that have made these sorts of changes to a Q50/V37, so you might end up being the first if you do decide to go ahead. ACP is Apple Car Play and AA is Android Auto, they are roughly the same thing for the 2 major phone operating systems (Apple's iOS and Android), it allows you to connect your phone and access a number of your phone applications on your car system.  With Nav apps included, so you could use google maps/Waze or whatever your favourite navigation app is, instead of using the built in navi system.  I think this would be a better solution if it is only Navigation that you are looking as swapping the head unit for. GPS signals are the same around the globe as the GPS satellites continuously circle the globe, but it is the head unit that doesn't allow you to load Australian maps, or at least no-one had made an Australian map that will load up on the JDM head unit. Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?
    • If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.
    • When you looking to buy injectors?? I could possibly sell you my 1d1700s for decent price. Done little work I just need bigger again 😫 
×
×
  • Create New...