Diagnose My Blow Up

[Betz]

from the research I have done it seems pretty uncommon to damage the engine when an exaust turbine drops off.

sure if your doing 200ks and on the redline + engine cough it could make its way through all the piping and into the engine.... but it'd be pretty rare I'm tipping.

reason why I am waiting is because when a terb blows I'll be doing the entire head and manifold system and putting it on my stock bottom end until its blows

[SECURITY]

if you want to speak to someone who had to rebuild due to a turbo failure, pm Duncan. his turbo actually sucked up a washer which chopped and damaged his bored etc. its unlikely that you would need a rebuild after an exhaust wheel failure. a compressor wheel failure is a complete different story. you'd just need to hope the fins in your fmic caught everything.

take your intercooler and hoses off and see if there is any scratching in them. that would be an indicator to whether or not it was compressor failure.

[SXR]

I wouldn't wait if I was you, you're playing with death. That was my attitude... but the thought that potentially my engine is now rooted due to ceramic shards is a bad feeling. But I'm also a tad excited about the forced upgrade - if that turns out to be required.

To those mechanics out there who have seen many blown up gtrs - what percentage of them would you say have done an engine as a result of the turbo? I know it happens - but is it rare?

Very common....Supras too

After you noticed it did you back off straight away, or were you still accelerating? If backed off straight away (no good).

I have a feeling your engine is fine. I think all the noise your hearing is the comp wheel hitting against the cover.

[seeyagtr]

Well the chases are if you have older stock or upgraded turbos and they are getting some Km's on them there is every chance that a wheel/bearing has failed in the turbo.

I have had my engine completly destroyed and a mate of mine has had the same thing on a 20,000 km old R34 vspec. This happens all to easy and a bit of extra boost then the wheel falls of....... then shit happens

I had after market steel wheel turbos and the bearing let go which then wheel hit the housing and it was all over in a cold of smoke...!

The turbo then enters back through the to the head and bore through the velocity of the wheel and the shattering particals then following the curve of the housing and manifold through to the head.

It does not seam to make much difference on the throttle postion reving the car up or down, it is rpm of the wheel and the volcity of the bits.

If comp test ok.... some new snails and off you go... :sorcerer:

[MANWHORE]

turbo/turbos

possible bore damage. compression test. leak down test.

[cash0]

Is there a risk of attempting a compression test? Like can you bugger it more by turning it over, or would the damage already be done you reckon?

[cash0]

We've started dismantling the whole setup, and as you'd expect in the world most cramped engine bay, everything is a pain in the arse.

Firstly, yes I found the exhaust wheel sitting right where you'd expect it in front of the cat. See photos. The majority of the actual blades seem to have disintegrated, where I don't know yet - hopefully straight through the cat and out the exhaust pipe.

Next we started pulling the intake pipes off only to discover a hell of a lot of oil lining the pipes along with a substantial amount of mud!!! Well fine dust embedded in the oil. That's not good. See pic.

Once all the piping was off we discovered the oil and water lines. Shouldn't be too hard to get that out of the way - WRONG! The bolts for the water lines will not move - they just won't. Firstly the nut seems a wired size, but after much stuffing around found a spanner that was a pretty good fit. No matter how much muscle was put in, it wouldn't budge. Even a dirty great big pipe on the end of the spanner wouldn't do. See pic with red circle for what I'm talking about. The only way forward is to completely bugger something, or for someone to produce some exotic tool to get it off... and that's just the first one of about five, they're all tight as hell.. and I don't see how you'd get the ones going into the turbo off, they are at such a bad angle to get a spanner on.

I'm sure plenty of people have faced this situation while getting at gtr turbos - anyone care to share some wisdom?

Edited March 19, 2007 by cash0

[enzan]

The best way to get that line off is with a decent PIPE spanner. Snap-on make the best pipe spanners as they dont spread open and round the bolt/nut head. You can interlock the pipe spanner with another ring spanner for extra length and torque. Thats not the wors't of it yet mate, plenty more instal for you my friend... enjoy!

[GunMetalR33]

^^ Do you have a pic of this pipe spanner??? I am helping cash0 with this...

Another thing to think about cash0 is:

Will any of this water piping be needed with your replacment turbos. Ie, are you going to have to run braded oil and water lines anyway, like if you went for a big single. If thats the case we dont have to worrie about damaging them too much...

SK suggested having a sticky beak inside the zaust mainfold as thats the path that the ceramic would go towards your values and through to your cylinders. I think this is the safest thing to do before we turn it over again.

Ps, just spoke to will. He saw you on the side of mugga when it happened

[cash0]

Yeah and about 3 skylines went flying past without lending a hand to a fellow owner is distress. Where's the love?

And a few wrxs with cheesey grins too.

Might try fisher discounts for this pipe spanner. Problem is we need a few sizes.

[GunMetalR33]

Dont forget about those Vice Grips

[enzan]

^^ Do you have a pic of this pipe spanner??? I am helping cash0 with this...

Another thing to think about cash0 is:

Will any of this water piping be needed with your replacment turbos. Ie, are you going to have to run braded oil and water lines anyway, like if you went for a big single. If thats the case we dont have to worrie about damaging them too much...

SK suggested having a sticky beak inside the zaust mainfold as thats the path that the ceramic would go towards your values and through to your cylinders. I think this is the safest thing to do before we turn it over again.

Ps, just spoke to will. He saw you on the side of mugga when it happened

Certainly. This is a pic of a snap-on pipe spanner, disigned for such situations as this. Here is another pic of how to interlock thy pipe spanner. :sorcerer:

[enzan]

Oh, it's not an odd size either, it'll be either 17mm or 19mm. All Jap stuff is metric. A bit of CRC works wonders too