Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The price is pretty good if you don't need to worry about organsing to buy it, you can get it cheaper elsewhere depends on how quickly you want it. $240 seems okish for an install hope that also includes them configuring it as well ???

---Updated---

Nengun = AU $ 503.36 + shipping = $546.30

Greenline = AU 503.735 + Shipping = ???

But keep in mind that these ones you may also have to pay import tax etc so i would actually buy it from him unless you want to get one second hand.

Also depends on if you are going to buy another ecu later. If you are then an AVCR is probably overkill. It does some of the simple things that an AM ecu does.

If you can get a boost controller for sub $400, then you are wasting $200? but if you don't intend getting an ecu for a while then the AVCR is a good cheaper compromise.

Also depends on if you are going to buy another ecu later. If you are then an AVCR is probably overkill. It does some of the simple things that an AM ecu does.

If you can get a boost controller for sub $400, then you are wasting $200? but if you don't intend getting an ecu for a while then the AVCR is a good cheaper compromise.

I was told the PowerFC boost controller plug in was not soo good.

I'd love for someone to actually show me some funky stuff with the AVCR when i do my high-flo upgrade.

The standard ECU will remain in place, I doubt it will ever be replaced. But it is being retuned by CEF11E once the turbo is finished being high flowed. I’m also getting a bigger fuel pump put in. so I think I should be pretty happy with the final product. Edd at Integra tells me the turbo should have no problems doing 220+ rwkw. But as far as I know I will probably need bigger injectors. As I think the standard RB20 items will only flow enough for around 200rwkw

I was told the PowerFC boost controller plug in was not soo good.

I'd love for someone to actually show me some funky stuff with the AVCR when i do my high-flo upgrade.

I wasn't saying not to buy a boost controller. The pfc one is OK, but basic, you would better with a dedicated evc no arguments from me there. What I was saying is that an AVCR is a boost controller plus a boost response controller. This is also done and done much better by a pfc.

If you aren't getting a pfc then its no problem = spend an extra $200 and get the AVCR.

If your plans include a pfc then get a $400 boost controller and put the $200 you save towards your pfc.

PS See this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=162435

re: spiking?

My understanding from the manual, is that once you start to spike you need to work on Solenoid duty timing and the like.

Of course this requires more work and testing, but i plan to let people far more knowledgable than i tune the bejesus out of it at the time.

I-Colour - very nice. Haven't read all this thread but I just had one fitted and I think it's the "ants pants". Yeah it has heaps of functionality and 4 boost settings which may well be deemed overkill. However, I like it 12, 15, 18 and 22 psi. It's going to be nice to go to the track and just select channel 3 (18psi) 300 awkws, boast or boost :)

It's extremely precise and very easy to use, configure/set. Gets my vote also for the amount of info that is displayed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...