Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I was kinda wondering why my boost is only on around 4.5psi, the reading is definately right because i have an aftermarket HKS boost gauge as well as the standard one on the dash connected. I thought standard factory boost was 7, could someone please help me out? Is there a stock boost controller somewhere or is the only way to get it on 7 (or 10 =P) is to go buy a boost controller?

Appreciate your responces!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160710-rb25det-r33-standard-turbo-boost/
Share on other sites

your owner might have disconnectd the stock solenoid that bleeds off pressure above 4.5k rpm. without that, it'll run 4-6psi

So does that mean if i get a boost gauge and have it boosted to 7psi it will still only run at 4.5psi because the stock solenoid is disconnected?

Sorry i mean if i get a boost controller - if i set it higher will it run higher or will it still run on low psi because of this other problem?

Where exactly is the stock solenoid. Would this be something i will be able to check myself and reconnect it if it has been disconnected??

general rule , bleed valves usually do leak and arent the best go - cheap alternative . or you could get a turbo tech spring and ballbearing boost controller for under $30 and they are the best for the cheap go . otherwise an EBC is the best thing for performance and adjustment . im thinking of getting myself a greddy profec .

Yup thats the one i was talking about hehe - looks exactly like my turbo timer so it'll match perfectly... lol :P

They worth around $560 brand new so i'll be waiting a few weeks before i get it.

hey man, if your stock gauge in your dash is showing 4.5, that gauge is actually in X 100mmHg (millimetres of mercury). So a quick conversion

450mmHg = 8.7 pounds/ square inch (psi).. when i first got my r33 i was the same as you, but yea dont worry its all good. not too sure why the aftermarket gauge is showing the wrong boost though, might have tapped into the wrong nipple.

cheers

izmir

I had the same trouble today and found that my boost solenoid was unplugged, Plugged it in and now I get the full standard boost over 4500RPM.

Heres where mine was unplugged right behind the air box........

DSC06182.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If doing that ^, I'd take the idle up valve out and plug the hole in the pump.
    • You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.
    • Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
    • Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
    • Update:   smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir   fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)   steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)   anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result       going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?   would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?   or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
×
×
  • Create New...