Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I just finished fitting the GT2860-5's to my R32 gtr and must say they've made a huge difference, the car feels more responsive and comes on boost earlier too. On full throttle it's fine but on really light acceleration and at cruise I now get bad waste gate flutter and surging. I never had this problem with the original turbo's and haven't changed anything other than the turbo's and a bit of metal off the exhaust manifolds.

Any ideas?? Help please!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160901-gt2860r-5s-surging-flutter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how much boost are you running? maybe you might need an aftermarket BOV.

Around 1bar I think (factory gauge). But I don't think it's got anything to do with the BOV's, It's barely seeing any boost at all at very light throttle.

I think his actually trying to describe the compressor surge problem.

I had this really bad on my GTR when I first bought it. with the original 2530's fitted it would "chuff" when cruising or light throttle up hill etc.

I bumped the base timing up by 2 degress and it fixed the problem.

it's compressor surge and the shuffling comes from the return pressure wave. after market BOV's being more heavily sprung will make it worse.

changes to tuning and/or cam gear positions should get rid of it.

edit/correction: it is not the BOV opening and closing, it is the flow of air back thru the AFM/airbox as incorrectly posted.

Edited by wolverine
Ok, I'll start with the basics i.e tune and see how it goes. I went through all the other threads on this topic and everyone is seems quick to point the finger at the BOV's.

its not the BOV's...to prove a point disconnect the vaccum line to them and block it so you don't have a manifold leak, then go for a light throttle drive up a long hill....i bet it still happens. Its the compressed air from the larger turbo's surging back out the intake through the AFM's.

You would not be on the throttle hard enough to generate boost, so the BOV would not even operate.

Ash ive had 2530's chuff so bad the car was almost undrivable....quick tune at Croydon's...magic...all gone!

Stock GTR BOV's are very good ive even seen them on hard tuned Supra's

Alright, well they are a fair bit bigger than the standards so I'm not ruling compressor surge out yet. I'll crimp the vacuum lines to the BOV's rendering them inactive tomoz and see what happens. But I don't understand how different turbo's is going to throw the BOV's out of wack??

Yer I've heard the standard BOV's are really good and I seriously doubt that they are the cause. But I shall test them and the plumbing for them anyway just so we know for sure. First i'll bump the timing up a tad as you suggested and see what happens. I've still only got a mines modified ecu at this stage so tuning is limited, wolf 3d coming soon. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll let you know what I find.

i have been told this with my setup that the turbo was producing too much air forcing air through to my afm. causing more fuel and hesitation.

Apperantly only way to fix it (from what i have been told) is if ya get a computer that has an inbuilt map sensor, or move the afm to another location before the TPS.

Bit of farkin around but if thats what has to be done, then thats it.

Im upgrading turbo anyway so i'll deal with it when time comes.

Edited by bazr33

Yer that's why I'm going for the wolf 3d v5, do away with the afm's all together, bit more expensive but I think the plug n play is the way to go. But for now, unless a simple tweak of the CAS will fix it, it looks like I might just have to deal with it. Oh well, I was looking for another reason to spend more money on her!!

Well today I blocked off the BOV vacuum lines - made no difference what so ever - still very bad WASTEGATE flutter and surging goin on under there - rules out the BOV's once and for all (and it upset the idle). Advanced the CAS - made no difference either. It seems to occur right on the transition from vacuum to boost, near impossible to drive slow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • 100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...