Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 Black R32 GT-R, second owner in Australia, I have owned it for over 3 years now and im a mechanic so it has always been looked after.

Reason for sale, i'v just finished building it and then went and lost my license for 6 months, i dont need to sell it and i dont want to sell it but seems like the appropriate thing to do.

Everything engine wise is built to similar specs as the jun lemon r33 gt-r so its rated to make 1000hp+.

- Twin Trust T67 25G turbo chargers with 10cm rears, 550hp each.

- Custom highmount stainless manifolds.

- Twin HKS 38mm external wastegates.

- Full custom exhaust, stainless twin 2 1/2 inch stainless dump pipes, into twin 3 inch stailess, into single 3 1/2 inch mild with metal cat and at the back split into twin 3 inch stainless again with twin 3 1/2 inch pipes at the rear.

- Custom stainless intercooler piping.

- Greddy drag spec twin entry intercooler with 135mm core.

- Motec M600.

- Apexi Power FC with hand controller.

- Greddy E01 electronic boost controller.

- Apexi Turbo Timer.

- HKS fuel rail.

- 960cc fuel injectors.

- Sard Fuel Regulator.

- Walbro 550hp intank fuel pump.

- OS Giken Twin plate clutch.

- Front brakes Drilled rotors with ebc pads, rear rotors slotted and dimpled with ebc pads.

- Greddy Catch can

- HKS adjustable cam gears.

- HKS timing belt.

- HKS step 3 camshafts. 272deg inlet and exhaust, 10.5mm lift, lifter bucket section had to be modified for cams to fit.

- Port and polished cylinder head.

- Valves crack tested and all guides and seats hav been redone.

- HKS 1.2mm head gasket.

- HKS inlet and exhaust metal manifold gaskets.

- Twin blitz blow off valves.

- JE forged pistons, 8.5:1 compression ratio.

- HKS connecting rods.

- Nismo N1 crankshaft.

- Nismo N1 Oil pump.

- Engine has been fully balanced down to every detail, crank balanced with harmonic balancer and clutch.

- Engine block, crank and con rods hav been cryogenically frozen to improve strength.

- SSR proffessor 18X9.5 3 piece wheels, white centre with chrome dish.

- Falken tyres 265/35/18 all round.

- Cusco fully adjustable suspension Height and spring rate.

- Full bodykit not over the top with genuine veilside front lip.

- Personal steering wheel with nismo button.

- Greddy gear knob.

- Alpine stereo with amplified pioneer speakers splits in the front 6 inch 3 ways in the back, with sound stream 12 inch sub.

- Alarm (windows go up when u lock it, chicks think its cool)

- Air Con is still there.

- Engine is heat proof powder coated yellow.

- The engine looks different now, those pics were wen it wasnt fully done and not running, it looks the same but theres more stuff crammed in there, and the car now has clear front indicators, cost $750 and look sick as.

- I forgot to add, arp head studs, arp main studs, acl race bearings with oil holes, and the block only has an 86.5mm bore only 0.5mm bigger than standard to try to assist strength, anything over is know for cracking the block, and also cryoed to help. Next step would hav been grout filling the water galleries but its a street car.

Things that were next but an going to do slowly while iv lost my license.

- Twin bosch 044 fuel pumps with surge tank.

- Splitfire coil packs.

- HKS twin power ignition.

- Oil cooler and remote filter.

- Front brake upgrade.

The only thing this car lacks is drivetrain strengh but its holding up just fine for now. Because i hav just finished the build iv only just finished running it in and is only on a very light tune. at the moment it is making 430hp on 0.8 bar boost and the cams are still set on 0. the engine has the potential to make 1000hp, the car owes me close to $100,000 i dont know at what price something like this will sell at but i want $48,000. If u dont understand the list of modifications then this car is not for you, no time wasters only serious inquiries.

Contact me at [email protected] if u hav any questions.

post-21133-1174279127.jpg

post-21133-1174279292.jpg

post-21133-1174566475.jpg

post-21133-1174566595.jpg

Edited by varun_gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161013-heavily-modified-r32-gt-r/
Share on other sites

WOAH!!!!

A few more ponies at higher boost would be right!!!!!

Would love to own this GTR, also well out of my measly budget of $28k =(

Best of luck with the sale and damn that is a sweet 32 GTR!!

dude....dude....

i think i can say that most people here if they had the money would pay for that. best of luck with the sale, if i get 50,000 tonight somehow i will let you know.

*heads to the newagency*

damn...

430hp @ .8bar that thing is gonna be an animal with the boost turned up!!

worth every cent looks so clean, G/L with the sale

add me to the "if i had the money" list!

hey fellaz thanks 4 all ur awesome comments glad u's like my car. iv tried my best no to go "half ass" anywhere so ye seems to be working ok. ye 0.8 bar its only like 11 psi, im hoping to get sum pumps and stronger ignition soon and turn the boost up to around 1.5bar should make 650hp hands down on pump fuel. these turbos are said to really start pumping when u get them up around 25psi so ye i dunno if i want to go that far yet. boost is coming on just before 5 full boost at 6000 so within that 1000rpm it jst slingshots away the reason i went the greddy turbos "lightswitch effect". ye we should be able to get the boost coming on about 500rpm earlier when we start playing with the cam timing at the moment the cam gears are all show i havnt touched them haha still set on 0 but ye change it nxt tune. the engine revs to 9000 so ye makes up for the lag cauz thers plenty left.

This is a stupid question but how many km do you get off a tank just cruizing it? If you keep it under 4500rpm is it still crap on fuel?

if i just cruise it i dunno it'll do a good 450-500 i havnt really tried, but one of the reasons i went with the motec is becuase of the level of tune it is capable of producing, u can hav the fastest of fast but be tuned to be conservative. but also our tuner is very very good and is up there with the best but the motec is definately the go, it actually is a classic case of "you get what you pay for". the real life of modifying cars is just like gran turismo, if u dont know much just go the most expensive part and it usually turns out to be the best haha.

Edited by varun_gtr

Sorry Blitz, but this question just has to be asked. Don't mean to hijack..........

In the 2nd picture, does the model leaning on the car on the right side of the photo looking straight at the camera only have a stump for an arm? Or is it just me?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...