Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

02 sti model, get an ecu edit an an exhuast an wind up the boost, 2lt forged engy with a 6sp gb and awd not bad

to bad they are way overpriced in aus, wrx;s i mena

well any vehicle in aus is way bloody overpriced.... I really need someone to explain the whole reason why we have import tarifs etc?

  • 4 weeks later...

get the 32 dude, its rwd, your gonna have heaps more fun it in compared to the awd rex. plus your gonna have cash to mod the beast

oh and forget the 33's - they look like whales >_<

Edited by spin_psycle
Forget about how much you love skylines for a second. To make it quick what should i get 98 WRX or a 93 R32 GTS-T. The only major reason i can think that the WRX is better is its a bit newer but all in all what are the pro's and con's of the cars?

Depends what you want to do with it and more importantly how it's been looked after for both.

Chances are most of what you will look at will be crap because both cars are typically driven hard.

If you could find a perfect stock example of each, for the same money, a WRX is probably a better buy

for both street and track.

Our last (98) WRX with unichip, exhaust, k&n panel, track pads and semis was good for 1.09.09 around Wakefield.

I did 250k kms in it (had it from new) with the last 210k being on 17psi boost (124awkw @ CRD) with regular track time.

Replaced one clutch @ 120k and one wheel bearing @ about 170k or so. They don't eat gearboxes if you don't wind

the wick up too much; nor do they eat clutches if you don't spend all your time launching them. They are a fun car

and the stock suspension on a 98 WRX will be in much better than stock '93 suspension.

Regards,

Saliya

a friend of mine drives a my99 wrx but is very conservative when it comes to launching due to the gearbox going a number of times. they're also not as fast as a rear wheel drive car on rolling runs, and can have some understeer issues. apart from that they're fairly well built cars

Edited by detster
02 sti model, get an ecu edit an an exhuast an wind up the boost, 2lt forged engy with a 6sp gb and awd not bad

to bad they are way overpriced in aus, wrx;s i mena

well any vehicle in aus is way bloody overpriced.... I really need someone to explain the whole reason why we have import tarifs etc?

lol, car in aussie is very very CHEAP if you compare it to vehicle's price in malay,indonesia or singapore..

for instance if you buy camry in indonesia, with that money you can buy e class or 5 series here..that explains why so many asian student got nice cars, coz it's cheap!!

Edited by BiAsA

WRX arent very fast stock... and yes they're gearboxes are notorius for dying

Go a 32 and mod it with the extra $$$

********************************************

32's arent very fast stock either, thier gearbox's arent much stronger, a bit of extra power and they snap like twigs.... sounds very familiar eh...

talk price range, if your comparing 20k, compare that with other 20k cars atleast.

cars are cheap in aus ? really, i was under the impression cars here cost a fortune compared to many other places in the world. south east asian countries not with standing I would suspect we are over proced.... thats the point of tarifs isnt it ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...