Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wanna do "some" internal work to the value of about $3000 (incl labour) if i do forged pistons, do i need to do the rods too or is that not necessary? Is there another option to forgies? I read once in a mag that there was another option which is better on cold start than forgies are. How much would i be looking at for pistons and which brand would be a better option, for just a street car with occasional track outings and sometimes running the 1/4

Any help, advice or websites will be much appreciated.

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/
Share on other sites

So, you have told us absolutely nothing about your cars modifications, or what type of engine you are planning on doing this too.

Your budget is completely unrealistic for what is effectively an engine rebuild - Pistons/rings alone will chew at least half your budget, and good luck finding a quality workshop that will do engine r & r, full disassembly, machine work and reassembly for ~$1500!

A good set of forged pistons with rings will cost anywhere from ~$1200 or so up to $3,000 depending on what you want. Common reputable brands such as CP or ACL would probably be the best for you.

Bottom line, if you want to rebuild your engine with 'forgies' and you want to do it right, be prepared to set aside $10k including parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2998158
Share on other sites

my rb25 acls with rings and gudgeon pins was under 1k delivered. Your rebuild will be purely based on your power goal. No need to put in whats not required.

Other option your thinking of is hypertek pistons i believe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999553
Share on other sites

oopz sorry, its an rb25 all i want from it is around 270 - 300 rwkw, but im in no rush, i also have seen some cast pistons which may well do the job as they are 40% stronger than standard items... (any comments?) oh ive got alot more than 3K ready for it, but like i said id rather do it slowly also i cant do without a car for long, so i was thinking pistons first with a set of gtr rods if i can do that (cryogenically treated to strengthen it) if i do pistons do i have to do the rods too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999729
Share on other sites

If you do pistons you dont have to do rods, thats optional, You can get your old ones race preped so to speak, and will handle you power goal fine if you do, If you want to over exceed that get rods, as this will save having to open the engine up again. hpe that answers your question, and as the others have stated, unless your doing the work yourself 3k is not enough far from enough

Piston Bores require a hone/bore for oversized pistons rings, and machine work for block plus your head work been best to get a full service done to it is anywhere from 1300 - 2k For the above

Pistons another 1300

Then you have to include labour, bearings, Gaskets, Water/oil pumps, Belts, Oil, Coolant, Theres the good part of 3k upwards

Ummm hope they answer your enquiries

Cheers

A

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999751
Share on other sites

man its unbelievable how much people get charged to get stuff done....i rebuilt my whole rb25 with forged pistons 20 thou over, new bearings all throughout, recod head with new stem seals and cut the valves and seats, decked block, new welsch plugs and faced the head and i did pretty well most of it myself except the machining, oh a cometic mls gasket as well...i think i spent max 3k that included a few new lines and hoses. Was pissed that they didnt reassemble the head...i had to lap the valves in myself and reassemble it....and i lost a collet in the process.

Workshop manual and a little time and you can save alot of money. However i wouldnt recommend it if your not confident in your mechanical ability.

For the power output your looking at mate...all you need is what i did. Probably not even that. Dont waste your time on rods, if your going for 400rwhp, maybe put some arp studs or bolts in them, unless you can find a cheap set of gtr rods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-2999762
Share on other sites

like i said guys if i dont have to get forgies to achieve 300rwkw i wont get them, but just for piece of mind id like to get something stronger than factory ive seen cast items which are 30% stronger than factory ones anyone used these? anyone with any experiece with these gimme some comments ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003025
Share on other sites

as far as im aware (rebuilt my rb25 2 weeks ago) i couldnt find anyone in aus who sold a STD rb25det cast piston..only pistons available were forged.. 300rwkw or 200rwkw if u get bad detonation ur going to blow a piston wether its cast or forged...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003080
Share on other sites

dont get cast get forged.....there only like 1100 bucks so no that expensive if you wanna go big later. But the thing i found with my rebuild that all the little crap like head gasket, gasket kit, bearings, timing belt, idler/pulley, water pump tensioners and all the little bits and pieces you made need here and there all cost you money. like with my gf wrx were rebuilding now found out the clutch was stuffed aswell so theres at least another 500 on my rebuild for that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003430
Share on other sites

man its unbelievable how much people get charged to get stuff done....i rebuilt my whole rb25 with forged pistons 20 thou over, new bearings all throughout, recod head with new stem seals and cut the valves and seats, decked block, new welsch plugs and faced the head and i did pretty well most of it myself except the machining, oh a cometic mls gasket as well...i think i spent max 3k that included a few new lines and hoses. Was pissed that they didnt reassemble the head...i had to lap the valves in myself and reassemble it....and i lost a collet in the process.

Workshop manual and a little time and you can save alot of money. However i wouldnt recommend it if your not confident in your mechanical ability.

For the power output your looking at mate...all you need is what i did. Probably not even that. Dont waste your time on rods, if your going for 400rwhp, maybe put some arp studs or bolts in them, unless you can find a cheap set of gtr rods.

ppl like me pay for it cos I dont have any time to spent building engines.. my mechanic does that.

However looks the good from what you have done. What sort of power are r u running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161431-pistons/#findComment-3003566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...