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Adapter was fitted(but need to check if is 1521500) and in addition my tuner also put in resistors for the coils.

it should not need those resistors. only the old emange used external resistors in a module.

keep me updated.

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it should not need those resistors. only the old emange used external resistors in a module.

keep me updated.

This morning changed setting to 12v start the car drove off and stopped after abt 2km parked the car at 10am. Came back to start car 1.30pm, cudnt start after several tries and half hour later. Got the car towed to workshop to test electricals:

1. Change back to 5v, still cannot start

2. Took out cam angle sensor, spin it and check with ohm meter and oscilloscope

3. Fuel injectors signals ok

4. One coil/spark out of head, check no sparking

5. Ignition input signals ok

6. Ignition output signals not detected

7. Swap to another ultimate board - still the same no sparking

8. Disconnect ultimate and using stock ecu - still no sparking

9. Open up stock ecu - motherboard looks ok with no smell of burning

Suspect stock ecu affected so meantime sourcing for another stock ecu to test or cud it be the cam angle sensor but the injectors signals functioning. My tuner said the ultimate installed is the latest version using the 'E' board which allegedly does not require any ignition adapter. The adapter is a mini-board attached just above jumpers J7 & J8 and this to get rid of the engine check light. Is there another additional adapter making a total of 2 adapters required as I saw on the Nengun website Adapter 1 & 2 are needed for ER34 engines.

So is my stock ecu or its ignition circuit fried? What's the mechanics of setting to 12v when the coils are rated 5v and did this setting send back any rogue currents to affect stock ecu? Is there any set parameters made up by the makers Trust?

Appreciate any help and advice

Edited by docang
My tuner said the ultimate installed is the latest version using the 'E' board which allegedly does not require any ignition adapter. The adapter is a mini-board attached just above jumpers J7 & J8 and this to get rid of the engine check light. Is there another additional adapter making a total of 2 adapters require

E board still requires internal mini board adapter. you should only need one mini board adapter...

E board still requires internal mini board adapter. you should only need one mini board adapter...

This adapter came together with the ultimate board order and was fitted onto motherboard when initially installed in my car.

I can try to get a picture of the motherboard and post here tomorrow.

As for the 5v to 12v setting is there any advice from maker to set it so or any mechanics behind this?

i bought the two adapters recommended by nengun aswell as the one from USA (mohdparts)

these are the ones recommended by Nengun

ignition_signal_adapter_1_pic.jpg

ignition_signal_adapter_2_pic.jpg

and my understanding is that they were for the blue version and are carrying over on the nengun site

they are the little black boxes that wire in

seven wires (6 yellow ,1 black)

the other adapter that nengun recommend has only five wires(4 yellow and 1 black) this one im lead to believe is for Evos

this is the adapter that goes inside the EMU

15921500_wire.jpg

15921500_pic.jpg

but on that note ill wait to see what your outcome is before i reinstall mine

According to my local tuner my ultimate's the latest version 'E' board and only reqir the 2nd adapter which was duly installed as shown in ur pics.

At first when ultimate was installed and tuned on dyno with setting at 5v, 3 splitfires were burnt and this was allegedly due to boost/rev cuts generating heat during tuning for both afm and map sensor maps.

Car's auto and dynoed at crank: 390 din hp and 55.1kgm with the autotrans slipping.

So the issue with car not be able to ignite is whether my stock ecu kaput or ignition circuit fried or cam angle sensor wayward and now waiting to source for another stock ecu to find out and still awaiting a clearer picture of the 5v to 12v settings from Trent...

dyno1.pdf

Edited by docang

if you installed adapter #2 then that may be your problem

My understanding is that is for a 4 cylinder hence the 4 yellow wires for the ignition

maybe trent can clear that up

but if its burning out splitfire coils then there is something more sinister going on id say

if you installed adapter #2 then that may be your problem

My understanding is that is for a 4 cylinder hence the 4 yellow wires for the ignition

maybe trent can clear that up

but if its burning out splitfire coils then there is something more sinister going on id say

Sori for the mixup, the adapter that was fixed up is the mini-board clipped onto the motherboard. As for the splitfires apparently the silicone cladding cannot withstand the hotter temps generated under boost/rev cuts conditns and stock ones fared better. The splitfires composite material melt on the top part just below the connectors.

Both the stock coils and splitfires were rated at 5v and my tuner was apprehensive abt changing the setting to 12v and wanted me to indemnify him in this instance...

Burning out coils is the lesser consequence than a fried ecu....

well for starters its an Output voltage change not an input

so it shouldnt in theory effect the ecu

if anything it will effect the coilpacks themselves

but please keep me posted on this im very interested to see what the problem is/was

i bought the two adapters recommended by nengun aswell as the one from USA (mohdparts)

these are the ones recommended by Nengun

ignition_signal_adapter_1_pic.jpg

ignition_signal_adapter_2_pic.jpg

THOSE ARE FOR THE BLUE EMANAGE ONLY.

the internal one below is the correct R34 Gtt and stagea adapter. ALL ULTIMATE ADAPTERS HAVE ULTIMATE CLEARLY WRITTEN ON THE BOX

15921500_pic.jpg

Edited by URAS
THOSE ARE FOR THE BLUE EMANAGE ONLY.

the internal one is the correct R34 Gtt and stagea adapter.

15921500_pic.jpg

Once the non-starting issue is resolved the setting wl revert back to factory of 5v....

Edited by docang
it should not need those resistors. only the old emange used external resistors in a module.

keep me updated.

Hi Trent,

Got the car started as it turned out the wiring to CAS was shot and got the wireman to trace the break and repair. Gone back to factory setting of 5v and initially after starting a bit of misfiring but went off after warming up. Currently have 5 stock coils and 1 splitfire on and the splitfire is starting to melt. The plug cover is off the engine to aid cooling. Wl try to source for a stock coil to replace.

So did the setting has an effect on the splitfire and misfiring and appreciate if you could provide a reasoning for the 12v setting to convince my tuner to change it.

Some problems cropped up with the ultimate:

- there is a fuel cut when boost hit 0.9 bar on half throttle and when my tuner tried to connect a boost cut defender to the

map sensor wiring the car cant start. Had a FCon S previously and boost cut was not a problem then hitting 1.4 bar and

my tuner who used to tune SZ is now looking into the S for some guidance. Hope u can help me out there...

- upon lift off throttle on boost and braking at low speed the rpm dropped and almost stalled. Shift to neutral and rpm rises.

With the S same problem but was helped by EIDS and when tried to connect EIDS to ultimate's AFM wiring there was

misfirings so appreciate your advice on any solution to this.

Engine mods:

er34 gtt auto

gt-rs

greddy 2bar map sensor with stock AFM

550cc sti injectors

hks fuel rail

hks 250l/h pump

hks 1.2mm head gasket

sard fuel regulator

hks fmic and pod filter

greddy rs bov plump back

low compression on no. 2 cyl (120psi and rest 140-160psi)

Mileage abt 300k and engine complete overhaul at 220k

Appreciate your advice.

Hi Trent,

Got the car started as it turned out the wiring to CAS was shot and got the wireman to trace the break and repair. Gone back to factory setting of 5v and initially after starting a bit of misfiring but went off after warming up. Currently have 5 stock coils and 1 splitfire on and the splitfire is starting to melt. The plug cover is off the engine to aid cooling. Wl try to source for a stock coil to replace.

So did the setting has an effect on the splitfire and misfiring and appreciate if you could provide a reasoning for the 12v setting to convince my tuner to change it.

Some problems cropped up with the ultimate:

- there is a fuel cut when boost hit 0.9 bar on half throttle and when my tuner tried to connect a boost cut defender to the

map sensor wiring the car cant start. Had a FCon S previously and boost cut was not a problem then hitting 1.4 bar and

my tuner who used to tune SZ is now looking into the S for some guidance. Hope u can help me out there...

- upon lift off throttle on boost and braking at low speed the rpm dropped and almost stalled. Shift to neutral and rpm rises.

With the S same problem but was helped by EIDS and when tried to connect EIDS to ultimate's AFM wiring there was

misfirings so appreciate your advice on any solution to this.

Engine mods:

er34 gtt auto

gt-rs

greddy 2bar map sensor with stock AFM

550cc sti injectors

hks fuel rail

hks 250l/h pump

hks 1.2mm head gasket

sard fuel regulator

hks fmic and pod filter

greddy rs bov plump back

low compression on no. 2 cyl (120psi and rest 140-160psi)

Mileage abt 300k and engine complete overhaul at 220k

Appreciate your advice.

I would find a new tuner fo the following reasons:

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has idle stability built in so no need for EIDS

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has fuel cut defencer built in so no need for HKS FCD

I think your on the money train.......

I would find a new tuner fo the following reasons:

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has idle stability built in so no need for EIDS

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has fuel cut defencer built in so no need for HKS FCD

I think your on the money train.......

There is a dearth of good tuners in Spore and the one i've is one of the better ones... Only lately the local tuning scene has been using the ultimate and seems its more easier with the evos, rexes and legacies(liberties) here....

We've tried the boost cut limiter cut setting from 2 to 5v and it doesnt seem to work so tat's why tried to connect FCD to map sensor wiring. Is it ok to connect fcd to AFM wiring instead?

Wl try sorting out the anti engine stalling setting feature of the ultimate and as your screen shot shows the same for the boost cut limit setting panel, any shortcut help wud be most appreciated.

As for the 12v setting any explanation for changing to this from factory 5v is most welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

Just had a quick brouse of this thread after some time offline, and just want to ask if these coilpack voltages are applicable to my S2 R33 auto?

I have the Ultimate with plugin Loom..Is this all I need to get it running or do I need one of these Minibox thingo's??

Not real good at the electronics side of these things!!!!!!

Cheers Dave

I would find a new tuner fo the following reasons:

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has idle stability built in so no need for EIDS

EMANAGE ULTIMATE has fuel cut defencer built in so no need for HKS FCD

I think your on the money train.......

Currently in Spore left only less than 15 Gtts and mine's the only one on ultimate.

Was paln to install an EMU to my Gtt auto ..need to study any problem that come while installing and tuning..

So what happen to other Gtt in s'pore..malaysian Gtt start to grow..

With our tax structure most Gtts went downunder & one even gone to S.Africa!

Msia sure hv more Gtts now than Spore. Last year i've gone for mitup with ur skyline kakis during JGTC...

Edited by docang

slightly off topic but can any1 tell me what sort of performance a lap top requires to run the EMU software?

I'm lookin to buy a EMU soon and was gonna grab an old 2nd hand laptop purely for tuning as i have to much other stuff on my current laptop.

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