Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi security thanks for the response, my universal harness has 3 plugs at the ultimate end. ie theres no more room for any other plug into the unit. Surely this means that i have all the necissary wires to control the ignition and the injectors. if not where does it plug into?

Only the blue emanage has separate INJ and IGN harnesses, the ultimate only has one complete universal harness with three plugs..

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi mate, a quick one

I have an R33GTST, how muchy would it cost and what is actually necessary to buy for an Gredy Emanage Ultimate to be pluged into the car.

What other sensors and harneses are necessary?

Also do they come with base maps to drive arround on?

since you still use your stock ecu, it doesn't need a base map. when you first hook it up it has no base map you just continue to run off the stock ecu settings. then when you start tuning all you are doing is altering the stock signals.

humm so propably best used with a stock computer, at the moment i have a central 20 ecu.

nah fine to use what you got, it already has the limiters moved etc makes it quicker to tune

hi mate there are no stupid questions but i need to know something.

i am buying an emanage ultimate. it comes with a cable and stuff, basic pack for $800.

wondering, they also have a seperate loom for$250. do i need to buy that as well. does that just allow it to plug into the stock ecu?

Couple of questions.

I have a R34 GTT.

Which parts will i require to install EMU?

I assume that the PnP is still not available yet?

Since the PFC and EMU give very similar gains, i don't see the need to fork out $1500 EXCEPT for the fact they have the hand controller which lets you monitor knock.

Does the EMU have a function where u can monitor knock?

Might hook it up to a laptop just to see if i can make sense of something, but i'm not an ECU person.

Also, i saw you mention Launch Control.

Is this a built in function of EMU or a seperate module?

And whats the difference in running a PFC with a Z32 AFM and running the EMU with no AFM?

Cheers

Trent can I run an Innovate LC-1 with the greddy Ultimate

or is it only the LM-1 ??

also on the Knock sensor wires I was told to wire in the Knock sensor number 2 as its the one at the back of the block and listens to the back cylinders

does that sound about right to you ??

lc1 is fine. You will just need to program the outputs to suit the inovate voltage/AF ratio the EMU expects which is 7.35 A/F @ 0v - 22.39 A/F @ 5v from memory.

Hi i have an r33 rb25det s2. i got my plug and play loom today. is the n-4 but i need the n-6. whats the difference i cant find any. what do i need to modify to make it work for my rb25det s2? any one. thanks

One more cuestion. i want to remove my maf. In this lines Trent talks about select pressure sensor ok no problem with that but, the part log its voltages? is the same as afm 2v to 5v? if is 2-5v for some reason the program dont allow me to go beyond 4.5v in the grreddy pressure sensor seting. any one thanks

How to remove AFM;

This is a simple operation that requires the optional greddy pressure sensor to be plugged into either of the inputs on the front of the emanage (yellow plugs).

open data sampler map (far right toolbar icon)

turn data sampler ON (click on/off icon)

select greddy pressure sensor and log its voltages (you will need to select greddy pressure sensor in the IGN and INJ too )

drive vehicle and populate as much of the sample screen as possible (safest to do on dyno or track) but road is fine if you have enough demerit points

cut and past this populated data into the AIRFLOW OUTPUT map.

done

Edited by nomenai

sup guys i have a emu sitting on my desk. my question= im putting in bigger turbo, injectors, z32/q45 afm, and it has a exhaust fmic etc, splitfires, iridium plugs.

do i just wack in the emu. will i need to buy any special harnesses to control the injectors or ignition, or will it all be sweet, is it all built in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...