E-manage Ultimate (emu) 56k Beware (screen Shots)

[EPGUN]

How did u sort it out ? Pls leave some info here.

It should be 12v.

thank for the rply i was following ch1 for ign1 ch2 for ign 2 etc etc thats how it came up with fault all ok now just had to swap a few wire around

aprt that i had ran it on 5 vaults can can the damage be

Edited March 27, 2008 by EPGUN

[STATUS]

Trent, any chance you could check out my PM? cheers

soryy i have been flat out opening the new workshop. i will look over the pm's.

[Haines]

wheres the new workshop Trent

Ill be down in Melbourne in a couple of months

will it be open then

[pear]

thank for the rply i was following ch1 for ign1 ch2 for ign 2 etc etc thats how it came up with fault all ok now just had to swap a few wire around

aprt that i had ran it on 5 vaults can can the damage be

I've got the same error - but I'm sure my wires are OK.

swap a few wires.... you were getting Ign error on ALL 6 channels, yes?

did a few wrong wires cause ALL 6 to error?

my wiring seems to match up with the install instructions.

Trent: Thanks for the reply.

[robots]

What I did:

Got N-4 harness for RB26.

I swapped knock2 and Air temp to read water and knock.

I also switched the inj. in/out #4 and #6. So it would work properly on RB20.

I left Ne/G as greddy. This way I got EMU to read timing properly, not 111.deg.

What I got:

Poorly running engine. Consult comes up with 43 and 21 error. TPS circuit and Ignition circuit.

EMU has troubles to calibrate the throttle position correctly. TPS error goes away after I start the engine.

Ignition circuit error is always there.

Poor idle/lumpy.

Still got missfires at 150-160km/h.Like before.

Need some help. Where to look for the problem ?

My posts in emanageforums:

http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showth...1100&page=8

================================================

Ok, I've swapped the Inj In#4 and #6 . And totally forgot to swap the 4# and 6# on the out side. Damn. I reset the EMU, but still get errors in my factory ecu. Still TPS error and still ignition circuit error. I've tried to recalibrate the TPS so it reads the same Volts on factory ecu and EMU. Factory ecu closed throttle was 0.46 and EMU read 0.44. Don't know why.

I just entered the TPS values manually. Factory ECU still came up with that problem. Don't know why. Will switch the inj. out #4 and #6 tomorrow and finally see how it goes.

U guys don't want to know ((((

I first swapped them near connector. But I only did the injector in#4 and #6. And totally forgot about the inj. out. Anyway, car behaved same. I still got TPS errors in Nissan consult and Ignition circuit errors. I also couldn't make EMU get to adjust the TPS normally. It would always change itself a bit and be a bit different to factory ecu. Like factory ecu min - 0.46v and EMU reads 0.44. Factory ecu reads 100% wot at 3.96 and EMU at 3.94. Something like that. Sometimes its only the 0% setting, sometimes the 100%.

Car started to behave strangely. It didn't drive as good as with factory ECU. Idle became a bit erratic.

Then today I finally got time to swap the inj. out wires. And the car didn't want to idle at all. I crank the engine, it started and died in a couple of secs. Hooked up my notebook, and emu software came up with a series of ignition circuit errors, like ign. channel 2.4 or something. But I didn't even touch the ign. wires, cause they are all spot on.

Hooked up factory ecu diagnostic software, same TPS and Ignition circuit error. Car didn't idle at all, smelled fuel(running rich probably didn't hook up my wideband). Idle didn't stabilize at all.

I was pissed off after that. Just ripped out the EMU plug&play N-4 harness, hooked up my factory ECU straight into the engine harness back and started the engine. Everything got back to normal in a couple of minutes. I hooked up the diagnostic software and it read no errors, no matter how many times I cranked the engine and reset the ECU.

I don't know what to do now. Did I get faulty EMU or what ?

The worst thing is it should be plug&play and working properly and it doesn't. Got no idea why. My engine harness is not in its virgin state, but its ok for factory ecu.

================================================

Any ideas ?

[robots]

What RPM signal type should I use ? RPM signal ? Or Ignition signal ?

[robots]

Here are the pics.

From left to right, top to bottom.

First is the harness when it arrived. And then goes the pics where I changed a few wires and changed the #4 and #6 inj. wiring. As you can see right now I got Input.Inj#4 swapped. I used my universal harness wires to do that.

And Inj. Out is still the same as greddy N-4harness.

My zipped EM2 files attached.

EM2.zip

Edited April 5, 2008 by robots

[joecrack]

hey uras i have a couple questions check your pm

thanks

[joecrack]

hey robots.

i see you are running this on a rb20 with the n-4 plug . now i thought u only had to change around inj 4 and 6 if you were running the rb25 ecu cuz i think the rb20 and the rb26 have the same 4 and 6 so no need to swap ???????

[Sydneykid]

You haven't got the plug upside down in comparsion to the pin out diagram by any chance?

Or are you looking at the front of the plug when the pin out diagram is for the back of the plug?

I do it all the time, so you aren't alone.

Cheers

Gary

[robots]

Hey, I did check the wire diagrams. And apparently rb26/rb25 inj 6 and 4 is the same. And rb20 have them switched.

[joecrack]

ok quick question i have a rb20 ecu and a n-4 harness.

what do i need to do to make it work just change 4&6?

i need something like this

but from rb26 to rb20

Edited April 29, 2008 by joecrack

[robots]

I got n-4 harness also. Check my posts above. Modded to suit rb20.

Need to swap inj in/out #4and#6 in the emanage harness, not the factory ecu harness.

And just work your way with Ne/G and Ar/A. I think my Ne/G stayed the same and EMU has no problem of picking up ign. timing.

Ar/A just swap them with the wires of identical color. You should get your 1 det sensor and water temp sensor working to activate auto-tune later.

[Gambit]

Can anyone tell me where they've connected the nvcs to??

I thought about splicing in at the ecu but I cant see an output for it.

[Alecci]

Right then... Sorry if I'm messing this excellent thread up.

First of all, I'm Swedish, so I'd appreciate it if you would all be somewhat indulgent towards my poor English.

On to the business then.

About one year and a half ago, I managed to crash my R34 GTR during a track racing event, front first into a wall at about 75 km/h. Most of the front end was busted in one way or another, but the engine seemed to come out on top. The only thing I could see on it was that the steering pump pulley was slightly damaged.

Seeing as I would have to replace a lot of parts and take the engine out of the car, I figured I'd spend some hard earned money on improving the performance, not that my insufficient driving skills was really in need of it.

Prior to the crash the car was completely stock apart from downpipe, catback exhaust and higher boost. The specification now looks like this:

Stock Bottom End

Race Ported Head

Tomei Intake Camshaft 260° Lift 10.25mm

Tomei Exhaust Camshaft 252° Lift 9.15mm

Tomei Adjustable Intake Cam Pulley

Tomei Adjustable Exhaust Cam Pulley

Tomei Valve Lifters

Tomei Valve Springs 10.85mm

Tomei Valve Guides

Tomei Gasket Combination 1.2mm 87.0mm

GReddy Timing Belt

GReddy Engine Pulley Kit

GReddy Racing Intercooler R-SPL HG Type 23 302.0mm x 600.0mm x 115.0mm

GReddy Intercooler Piping Kit

GReddy Racing Radiator 435.0mm x 670.0mm x 48.0mm

GReddy Radiator Piping Kit

GReddy Intake Plenum

GReddy Plenum Piping Kit

GReddy Oil Cooler Kit NS1010G 299.0mm x 142.0mm x 50.0mm

GReddy Blow-Off Valve Type-RS x 2

GReddy e-Manage Ultimate ECU

GReddy e-Manage Ultimate N4 Harness Kit

GReddy Profec B-Spec II Boost Controller

GReddy Turbo Timer

Sard 800cc Injector x 6

Sard 280L Fuel Pump

Sard Fuel Delivery Pipe

Sard Adjustable Fuel Regulator Type-R

Nissan N1 Oil Pump

Nissan N1 Water Pump

Nismo Air Flow Meter x 2

Nismo Low Temperature Thermostat

GT-Tune Stainless Steel Low Mount Manifold x 2

Garrett GT2560R-JP x 2

Since the rebuild was completed the car has failed to start. To be honest, I've no experience in tuning cars or even working on them. I've taken advice from others among my acquaintances that have suggested solutions to the problem.

I have spark.

I have fuel.

But the car will not start.

I’ve checked all earth wires.

I’ve replaced the battery.

I’ve used start assistance from another car.

But the car still will not start.

I first tried to start it using only the standard ECU, needless to say without any success. I suspected it would not start under those conditions, since the injectors are now twice the size and the AFM’s are also upgraded.

Today I plugged in the GReddy e-Manage Ultimate. I managed to get it working, communicating with my laptop and updated it to the latest version (2.13 if I’m not mistaken).

I brought up the parameter setting and selected the RB26DETT. I thought I’d be able to set the “Airflow change to” to Nismo AFM’s, but it seems all the options listed are standard engine components.

On the “I/J” tab I put in data for the new injectors at the bottom, 800cc injectors and 1.1 milliseconds latency. I made no other changes whatsoever.

Thereafter I saved and exported the data to the main unit. In spite of all this, however, it made no difference to how it was earlier. The engine turns over, it even “coughs” a few times, but it will not start.

I’m just about one step short of losing heart. I’ve been trying for two months by now to get it fired up. The whole restoration project has already cost me my marriage. If the problem isn’t solved soon, I’d gladly take a sledgehammer to the car and smash it.

Before anyone suggests it, taking the car to a professional mechanic or a tuner shop is not an option, neither for practical nor economical purposes.

Please also take due notice, my mission is not to map the car, just getting it started so that I can drive it to the tuner shop that will map it.

Basically, what I want to know, is if there’s any more changes I need or should do in the EMU setup programme that would get it to start or at least improve the chances?

[Craigr33]

Hello, noobie from the UK here.

First, just like to say what an excellent forum this is, excellent resource of information.

Hopefully you can help with an EMU issue, as there is little in the UK on the EMU.

Following on from this thread, I have bought an EMU for my spec 1 R33 GTS-T, which I have fitted today. I had some help from a guy in the UK on this, but having fitted it the car is running like crap, struggling to start, misfiring, erratic idle, etc.

The car is almost standard (at the moment), with just a Blitz front pipe, cat back, and sonic induction kit.

I have used the N4 specific harness. I have made the wire swap for the cam/crank angle and also swapped the purple/yellow knock sensor wire to the redundant purple/yellow connector as I have been advised.

The car has been set-up on the initial parameter settings below:

Can anyone see what I have made a complete balls of or have any suggestions? Put the car back to stock and it runs fine, so must be something within the EMU setup

[robots]

Did u upgrade to the latest firmware ?

[Craigr33]

No, only got the original firmware (1.09 I think). Will upgrade and see if it helps.

Also I changed jumper 13 to closed on pins 1-2 to select water temp instead of knock 2. Is this the correct setting?

[robots]

No no need to touch the 13 jumper .Only jumper 8. Read as above.

[Craigr33]

Ah right, I'd left jumper 8 at 5v as it is a series 1 gts-t with external amplifier. Should it be 12v then?