E-manage Ultimate (emu) 56k Beware (screen Shots)

[STATUS]

You got a dyno readout on that R34 Trent

also what supporting mods did it have im looking at trying for around 270 myself

and was it a standard auto ?

will get it up 2moro, yes std auto.

[SECURITY]

Trent, I still cant convert my car to run with the MAP sensor. it idles okay, but if i put my foot down it hesitates then revs. its also hard to start. i spent 2hrs getting the maps right, even used the inj map to adjust fuel but its still not good enough to drive around with.

any clues?

[STATUS]

You got a dyno readout on that R34 Trent

also what supporting mods did it have im looking at trying for around 270 myself

and was it a standard auto ?

[pear]

Hey guys, i've picked up an innovate LC-1 - have many ppl connected these to their emu?

any detailed setup/instructions for R34 GTT?

i was talking to a guy in perth that had everything setup, but the emanage forum is down and i've lost contact

[scags]

Hey guys, i've picked up an innovate LC-1 - have many ppl connected these to their emu?

any detailed setup/instructions for R34 GTT?

i was talking to a guy in perth that had everything setup, but the emanage forum is down and i've lost contact

Hey Pear,

Your lucky day - I'm the guy from Perth

I've attached my notes - An Excel Spreadsheet with 3 tabs. each tab shows a device (LC-1, Old Oxygen Sensor, EMU) and what the cables were connected to and should be changed to.

I made my own EMU front panel connector using a internal computer audio plug - worked better than I expected. The hardest bit was running the wiring between the engine bay and the cabin.

LC-1 is working great - I've used the EMU auto tune function to help home in on my desired AFR. On to Knock and ignition timing now, but I've hit some sort of turbo pressure issue I've got to sort.

I'm also spewing the emanageforums site is down - what's going on there!

Hope this helps,

Scags

LC1_Skyline_ER34.zip

[Haines]

you are pretty sort after guy at the moment Scags LOL

Im also chasing that info

And on the emanage forums I believe it had something to do with the stockmarket crash

Pear knows more

Edited November 18, 2008 by Haines

[antomx]

Id like to say this is probably the best info on the EMU i've seen on the net and I've been pouring a ton of hours in searching, much thanks to URAS and all others who know what they are doing with the EMU,Anyway..

Had a few questions, Ive got a series 2 Rb25det ive stuffed into an S14, all S14 wiring gutted and nothing but R33 wiring in it. (yeah I live in the states)

Ive got an EMU that I'm about to wire in and plan on doing the AFM elimination.

So after I log the greddy pressure sensor vs. RPM and get as much data as possible and put that into the airflow output map and interpolate the rows and such, get the numbers looking and working good... Im guessing im going to max those numbers somewhere in that layout and hit boost cut.

Ok so I clamp the voltage rite before that happens...now the ECU never sees the voltage but i still need fuel and timing correction beyond that point, soooo.....

Do I go to the injector and ignition maps and put in the values i need there? or do I use the aux. map or something else?

Also what if some of the values inputted into the airflow output map overlap something you've put in these other maps? which one wins?

[bnr32_700ps]

Hi guys. I've just installed EMU to my car and have 2 problems. The ignition timing in the datalog show that it currently running on 110degree btdc when idling and it doesn't change when the rpm change. And also the EMU didn't sensing any knock when the engine under full load and show 0 knock on the datalog. What did I do wrong? Is it the wiring or setup in the jumper or software? Anyone can help? Thanks.

Edited November 24, 2008 by bnr32_700ps

[Haines]

for starter your knock should be set to resonant 7.02

and as for the 111 deg problem its a wiring prob i believe or jumper setting

[robots]

swap the cam and crank angle wires. will do the trick.

You wired it wrong.

[STATUS]

swap the cam and crank angle wires. will do the trick.

You wired it wrong.

yup

[scags]

for starter your knock should be set to resonant 7.02

and as for the 111 deg problem its a wiring prob i believe or jumper setting

Hey Haines,

How certain are you we should have our kncock set to "resonant" and 7.02? I ask because I want to be sure I can trust the signal I am getting before I advance my timing much more. Isn't the frequency dependent on the bore and stroke of the engine? Does that mean it wouldn't be the same for different models of skylines? I had a good thread going on this before emanageforums went down So much information lost in a matter of senconds. I hope someone is able to revive the information that had been gathered at that site...

You said I'm sort after? Who else is looking for me?

JJ

[Haines]

I think it may actually be non-resonant and i have just read it on forums

mines set to that and seems to be working

Edited November 27, 2008 by Haines

[SECURITY]

Id like to say this is probably the best info on the EMU i've seen on the net and I've been pouring a ton of hours in searching, much thanks to URAS and all others who know what they are doing with the EMU,Anyway..

Had a few questions, Ive got a series 2 Rb25det ive stuffed into an S14, all S14 wiring gutted and nothing but R33 wiring in it. (yeah I live in the states)

Ive got an EMU that I'm about to wire in and plan on doing the AFM elimination.

So after I log the greddy pressure sensor vs. RPM and get as much data as possible and put that into the airflow output map and interpolate the rows and such, get the numbers looking and working good... Im guessing im going to max those numbers somewhere in that layout and hit boost cut.

Ok so I clamp the voltage rite before that happens...now the ECU never sees the voltage but i still need fuel and timing correction beyond that point, soooo.....

Do I go to the injector and ignition maps and put in the values i need there? or do I use the aux. map or something else?

Also what if some of the values inputted into the airflow output map overlap something you've put in these other maps? which one wins?

Ive found that it works best when you do a voltage clamp vs. throttle position. nothing else has worked properly for me.

What you can do is do a map trace and when you feel 'boost cut' change your values in the Airflow Output Map (where you're putting your voltage clamp data) to a lower value to bypass it.

the map trace will tell you which values you're reaching 'boost cut' on so all you need to do is change the values in the highlighted boxes.

the WORST issue i had was cold start with the MAP sensor running. it would run like an absolute pig. i ended up buying an EEE PC just to have in the car with only the emanage software installed so i can adjust the cold start voltage when i turn it on in the mornings!

The problem is on cold start the AFM voltage is around 1.70 on idle, then when it gets to operating temp it sits at ~ 1.06. the 1.06v on cold start makes it run like crap and VERY lean. I even tried playing with the temp adjustment map to add fuel but it only worked to a maximum of +20%, i needed at least 40% adjustment for the afr's to be anywhere near the right value to idle properly.

Trent, do you have a fix for this?

[antomx]

Ive found that it works best when you do a voltage clamp vs. throttle position. nothing else has worked properly for me.

What you can do is do a map trace and when you feel 'boost cut' change your values in the Airflow Output Map (where you're putting your voltage clamp data) to a lower value to bypass it.

the map trace will tell you which values you're reaching 'boost cut' on so all you need to do is change the values in the highlighted boxes.

the WORST issue i had was cold start with the MAP sensor running. it would run like an absolute pig. i ended up buying an EEE PC just to have in the car with only the emanage software installed so i can adjust the cold start voltage when i turn it on in the mornings!

The problem is on cold start the AFM voltage is around 1.70 on idle, then when it gets to operating temp it sits at ~ 1.06. the 1.06v on cold start makes it run like crap and VERY lean. I even tried playing with the temp adjustment map to add fuel but it only worked to a maximum of +20%, i needed at least 40% adjustment for the afr's to be anywhere near the right value to idle properly.

Trent, do you have a fix for this?

So you're still keeping the airflow output map on greddy sensor when doing all this right? and doing all the clamping there and not even using the boost limiter map?

Edited December 1, 2008 by antomx

[STATUS]

The problem is on cold start the AFM voltage is around 1.70 on idle, then when it gets to operating temp it sits at ~ 1.06. the 1.06v on cold start makes it run like crap and VERY lean. I even tried playing with the temp adjustment map to add fuel but it only worked to a maximum of +20%, i needed at least 40% adjustment for the afr's to be anywhere near the right value to idle properly.

Trent, do you have a fix for this?

Hmm not had this issue, i would try juggling the afm voltage in the output map to mid way between the two, bit on the rich side at idle say 12.5-13 instead of 14 ish and see if you can get enough cold start in there. without playing with it here it is a bit hard sorry.

Edited December 1, 2008 by URAS

[Haines]

ive had to set my idle Afrs at 12.5- 13.5 if it gets any leaner it wants to miss

[STATUS]

ive had to set my idle Afrs at 12.5- 13.5 if it gets any leaner it wants to miss

where is your AFR sensor?

ps did you get map via email?

[Haines]

sure did mate also sent you a few more emails back

im running the lc1 and i have it in the dump pipe at the bend about 12" away from exhaust housing

[STATUS]

Just did a stagea and i get alot of enquiries on them so i thought id share anothr i did the other day for a fellow SAU'ER

Edited December 2, 2008 by URAS