Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i am back on land of the skyline but now with r34 gtt auto i recently put on the following

e manage ultimate with ignition adaptor and set to 12v

with complete universal loom

specs are

nismo fuel pump

blitz 540cc injectors lag set to 1.02 and .60 for stock

and new roller bearing turbo unit with steel turbine

the problem i am having sometimes you can struggle to start

1 .when it start it idles fine etc but it has slight misfire once evry few seconds but revs very clean

2 . one you drive it after few minutes tcs and slip light will come on and stay on and canot switch it back on and sometimes it will stall

also how do i remove fuel cut

any help would be greatly apreciated

thanks

hi i found out why i am having problems see if anyone can help me in anyway . if the car slows down to 50mph i get check engine light come on for 1 second then go off this uts a airflowmeter tfault and causes tcs to stay on,

what i have noticed is that wen car gets to 50mph for a split secont the output afm signal go to 0v wich causes the problem

any ideas

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi i found out why i am having problems see if anyone can help me in anyway . if the car slows down to 50mph i get check engine light come on for 1 second then go off this uts a airflowmeter tfault and causes tcs to stay on,

what i have noticed is that wen car gets to 50mph for a split secont the output afm signal go to 0v wich causes the problem

any ideas

Either the wiring has a fault or more likely the afm has a loose connection inside. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could probably fix the dry jointed AFM pins, do a search for the "how to", or just replace it.

Either the wiring has a fault or more likely the afm has a loose connection inside. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could probably fix the dry jointed AFM pins, do a search for the "how to", or just replace it.

but why would it only do it at 50mph as it does not do it any other time

does anyone know, with the 'external switch', it is a 3.5mm jack, which has 3 pics on it. does the EMU need to see continuity between two of these to switch over, or do i give 12v to one of them? if so which particular pin?

has any one got a base tune for emanage blue rb25det. really need one asap.

no such thing, just delete the tune in it, once deleted car will run like std.

have you got the software and special cable?

delete all the info in the ecu, and only set the injector adjustment it is also in the software just put i the before and after sizes.

no such thing, just delete the tune in it, once deleted car will run like std.

have you got the software and special cable?

delete all the info in the ecu, and only set the injector adjustment it is also in the software just put i the before and after sizes.

how do i wipe the entire tune? do i set all values to zero or is there a menu? yes i have the software and the cable, and yes i have a basic understanding of the software.

how do I wipe the entire tune? do I set all values to zero or is there a menu?

I gather I don’t need resistors on the injectors (JECS 550cc) high impedance? Any modifications to the coil packs S2 built in igniters, they are yellow jackets.

Jumper settings:

1 – 1/2

2 – 1/2

3 – 1/2

4 - open

5 - open

6 - open

7 -1/2

Dip Switch – 7 / 0 / 1 (it has a z32 afm)

Other 5 dip switches are set to 0.

Also there are two others internally next to the 5 blue ones which are also blue, VR6 and VR7 what do these do, there currently set for 0 could not find anything in the manual.

Cheers,

dave

needs more EMB info:

Jumper settings inside the E-manage:

JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select

1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground

2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail

* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to ground

* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's setting)

Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3.

JP2 Ignition output select

1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V

2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V

* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output

* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude of the original signal

JP3 airflow/VTEC output select

1-2 2nd airflow meter

2-3 VTEC

* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non-VTEC applications

JP4 airflow/VTEC input select

1-2 VTEC

2-3 2nd airflow meter

* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non-VTEC applications

* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.

JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers

Jumper off - Disabled

1-2 - Enabled

* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-manage

JP7 VTEC

1-2 Non-VTEC

Jumper off - VTEC

* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)

what should jumpers on emanage blue be set to for series 2 rb25det?

my guess would be.

1= 1-2

2 = 2-3

3 = 1-2

4 = ? jumper off (there is only 2 pins)

5 / 6 = jumper off

7 = 1-2

Edited by 32_Dave

The car wont start at all but if i remove the ecu and re install standard it starts but is flooded so fuel is getting in. whats the difference between crank angle and cam angle sensor? it says on the loom for both of these but the numbers on the ecu correspond with the 1 degree and 120 degree crank angle.

  • 1 month later...
There has been good and bad reports about the emanage in the past, Some people have ignition timing irregularities...

Hi guys, there seem to be a lot of people who have used the EMU with success so was hoping someone might be able to help out a Greddy Emanage newb - please bare with me if this turns out to be something silly. I am helping a mate who is running an E-Manage Ultimate in his Honda, neither of us have used one before and hardly anyone in NZ seem to use or know much about them.

The setup process all seemed pretty straight forward, and for the most part it seems to work fine (fuel/timing adjustments seem to work as expected, datalogs look otherwise sensible, after a bit of adjustment to suit the car mostly drives and idles fine despite having 60% bigger injectors/big cams etc) aside from where we get fairly erratic timing on datalogs as the RPM increase, I am sure its not a representation of the factory map. Basically timing jumps back 10+ degrees and rpm seems to drop (even if vehicle speed is static or increasing) within a single log entry once it reaches around 4000rpm. This is felt as a bit of a misfire when driving.

We've replaced potential points of failure in the dizzy and checked for dodgy earths to no avail - and I've just had an from someone who tried to dyno tune their Supra running an EMU last week who is also getting jumpy ignition logs, I've not spoken with him yet but given the EManage is the common factor on something similar I thought I'd see if anyone has encountered the same kind of thing... or more importantly, fixed it?

We are hoping to get it on the dyno next Saturday but am not going to do anything with this issue floating over our heads, so any input would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks!

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster.

I recently installed some nismo red side feed injectors into my skyline and am having trouble adjusting the latency settings in my emu. I can't get the car to start and run properly and was wondering if someone could shed some light for me as this is becoming tedious.

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster.

I recently installed some nismo red side feed injectors into my skyline and am having trouble adjusting the latency settings in my emu. I can't get the car to start and run properly and was wondering if someone could shed some light for me as this is becoming tedious.

lol, EMU's are tedious fullstop, i spend alot of time fixing up screwed EMU tunes...

you should be able just to input the injector size correction and fine tune the latency from there.

when i exported the tune from the emu it had 280cc (seems wrong) and 0ms latency in the settings, I changed that value to 370 and put in 740 and .2 for the latency, but she won't fire up, just cranks....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...