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Has anyone wired one of these into a CA? I'm reading the install guide and I can see it says if you're using low impedance injectors, which CAs and R32 GT-Rs are by default, that you will need a dropping resistor, is that right? I thought the dropping resister was only needed if you were putting high impendance injectors into a low impedance car?

Or is the resistor needed for the Emanage's benefit?

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I don't have the emu, was looking at a cheap one.

A remap isn't available locally and if I'm driving 6hrs return to get a tune I'd rather it be on something that allows me to adjust it later or at least do data logging.

I know I can buy a Nistune but the emu was much cheaper (yes I realise they are two different devices).

Trying to avoid forking out $440 for a new nistune and software. I have an SAFC2 and just need some timing control (yes I realise everything is better than an SAFC) but as it's a track car it only needs to perform properly at WOT, which at the moment it more or less does.

  • 1 year later...

I know it looks like this thread is dead, but I was hoping there might be someone on here that can give me some feedback, well here goes, if anybody is out there.

I've read through this thread searching for a possible solution for a problem I'm having. Car ran fine before installation. Issues I'm having at the moment are, 1st since installing emu, car is hard to start, wants to flood. I have to open the throttle to get it to start. I have since then cut 20% fuel in the lower coolant temp enrichment tables to get it to start without throttle input, but it is still momentarily rich for about 20 seconds, then leans out to be normal. 2nd, when I try to advance igniton timing, it goes all wacky in the areas I add timing. In the logs, it is really fuzzy, with crazy spikes anywhere from 10 to 40 degrees advance, when in the map I have .5 degree advance. 3rd, I can't seem to get the engine anti stall to work for nothing, maybe the other problems I'm having are associated to this also though. I have double checked the ignition firing order and it is wired up according to the top of this thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

  • 5 months later...

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    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
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    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
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