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SO what was the issue ? Btw, Trent any ideas on my case ? Thanks!

The map was set before the EMU was in the car, for some strange reason it wouldn't pick up any injector signal. Started a new map, and played with the injector latency (IIRC) and vola :D

SO what was the issue ? Btw, Trent any ideas on my case ? Thanks!

try opening the EMU program and NOT downloading info from ECU, then open a new file and input your info into it. THEN PRESS OK NOT THE APPLY buton in the settings menu. (also if you have bigger injectors try leaving the lag the same as the originla figure)

Wheezys car had 555cc injectors but would only run with the std lag time inputed in there not sure why but it works fine.

So, if I have stock everything. And didn't even touch the maps. I should load up the software, without connecting it realtime to the EMU, right ?

Choose rb20det, leave everything like greedy stated and press ok, not apply ? Correct?

If so, I will try it out today.

Ok. Some more progress from me. Not the best I suppose.

My engine started to miss. Cyl 3 was not firing. Checked the igniter, if the coils got power, if the inj. got power. Everything seemed normal. Though consult was giving 21 error code, which is ignition circuit something. And emanage also was alerting something about cyl 2.4 ignition. But the thing is, when I take out the coil with plug and crank it I get a spark. Thought it was fuel. Checked the voltages to inj. 3 and it was ok, and after I checked the inj. voltages it fired up. I was like, ok. Went for a drive and it started to miss again. I could cure it by turning off the engine and turning it on again for sometime, but then it didn't help also. I've then decided to bypass the ignition from the EMU. Disconnected every ignition wire from the EMU, reconnected it with the factory harness. I use universal harness for the EMU, not the N-4 adapter. Started the car and still misfiring. It was late and in the middle of the road, so I decided to go home. Next day, I ripped the EMU out and the engine started perfectly with no signs of missing cyl3 or any other. I took the car for a drive.

I wanted to find out if I also had this rev-cut in 4-5 gear around 140-160km/h. Nothing ! Only the factory rev-limiter after 180km/h. What I also found out,that I get better mileage with factory ecu, than with EMU connected. I was struggling to get 250-260kms out of 55-60 liters of fuel with EMU connected. I thought it was my right foot. I was mistaken. Now with factory ecu, I got 380kms without any effort.

I ordered an N-4 harness. I still hope it was the wiring or my mistake or something and N-4 would magically cure it.

Appreciate all the ideas and feedback!

P.S.

Could it be a faulty EMU ? I'm confused.

Edited by robots

Did your map come to me via [email protected]?

cause i had a look at the map and the inj map had way to much fuel added to it.. i think due to the a/f map trying to overcome closed loop. If it is yours i would be happy to redo it if you could send me a wide open log through 3rd gear... just so i know where it traces through the map on your car.

Otherwise if some-one else with a R33 could email a 3rd gear WOT log to [email protected] i could use it as a base. (i got no R33's handy ATM)

Trent

(if i were you i would just buy the plug in harness, 99% of problem i incurr are wiring related, joints etc)) i would be happy to do a trade in on your universal harness.

Hey, Trent. My EMU is on RB20. And it didn't alert me of any errors when I first wired it. And car was not missing.

Also I'm in China now, so I ordered plug in harness from Hong Kong. Will try to sell the universal one when the plug in one arrives.

I haven't even touched the maps. So I'm really confused why was I getting this shit from EMU ?

Hey guys,

Just wondering whether can i use normal greddy boost meter sensor works with EMU to eliminate air flow ?

Thanks!

OK this will be of a work in progress as i dont have much spare time ATM

I will start by loading up all the important features with screen shots as this will show how it works and the options involved ie scales etc

I have added the wiring mod needed when using the plug and play GTR loom on R33 GTS-T

NOTE: GTT needs ignition adapter (internal plug in) and jumper 8 set to 12v not 5v as they have internal ignitors. In fact it is best to ALWAYS set this jumper to 12v as even if the ignition system is 5V it will not harm the system or any components.. it will only harm things if you set it to 5V and it is actually 12V.

**** ADDED ALL THE INSTALL NOTES AND HARNESS ADAPTERS****

ok i just installed mine :yes:. on a r33 s1.5.

and from a previous prob my car doesnt crank ova (need greddy tb adapter).

ok i have changed the jumper to suit 12v.

QUESTION[/b]

my knock sensor doesnt read, but this is only on starting, will it only register once engine running?

and my water temp C NS_WT-1 reads about 70-80c, and when i switched the jumper it reads -16 or something, which is correct?

also when the key is in on position, the active led flashes. i read this is due to errors? and if so how can i view the errors?

Edited by r33cruiser

lol yea flashing greenish color. but in the manual it says that relates to error codes?!?!?!

also my question

my knock sensor doesnt read, but this is only on starting, will it only register once engine running?

and my water temp C NS_WT-1 reads about 70-80c, and when i switched the jumper it reads -16 or something, which is correct?

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