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So you're still keeping the airflow output map on greddy sensor when doing all this right? and doing all the clamping there and not even using the boost limiter map?

no the airflow output map was still throttle position vs rpm.

i was using the boost limiter map but for some reason it wasnt working.

Hmm not had this issue, i would try juggling the afm voltage in the output map to mid way between the two, bit on the rich side at idle say 12.5-13 instead of 14 ish and see if you can get enough cold start in there. without playing with it here it is a bit hard sorry.

ok i'll try putting the idle voltage somewhere around 1.35v and +20 to -20 which will give me 40% to play with. i should have thought of that sooner. thanks Trent, i'll let you know how i go.

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no the airflow output map was still throttle position vs rpm.

i was using the boost limiter map but for some reason it wasnt working.

What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

Edited by antomx
What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

best to use pressure sensor. better resolution... gm sensor works fine to and cheaper.

What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

yeah mate im using the pressure sensor for everything else.

its just cleaner to make the car run on the MAP sensor if you log the AFM voltages vs. throttle position.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for a very basic question I think but I dont really know much about mapping and am looking at E-Manage Ultimate as an option.

My S1 RB25DET had been converted to a wasted spark setup like this

Same kit

and I was wondering if this affects the ability to wire it in etc ?

Many thanks

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...
Sorry for a very basic question I think but I dont really know much about mapping and am looking at E-Manage Ultimate as an option.

My S1 RB25DET had been converted to a wasted spark setup like this

Same kit

and I was wondering if this affects the ability to wire it in etc ?

Many thanks

Paul

no stress, but yeah you need to follow the wasted spark diagram in the installation book

  • 1 month later...

I was just wondering if someone would be kindly enough to send me there map for:

rb25det s1

"emanage blue"

Stock Turbo

Stock Injectors

FMIC

POD

FULL Exhaust

looking to run about 13-14psi

i've just purchased a Blue emanage and have full access to a dyno

Though i will be looking to take it to trent afterwards for some fine tuning

I have the cable for the Emanage blue but having trouble tracking down the software for it

hopefully someone can be nice enough to send me the software also

[email protected]

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

This is the injector map of my EMU.

I dont know a thing about what these numbers mean really but my car is stareting to run like SH!T!

Getting alot of soot on the back now and cant run full boost without pinging.

Full is 15psi low is 10.5 runs on low boost but stinks of fuel when ever I pullup.

Does this map look normal?

post-34973-1238666237_thumb.jpg

Hi,

Just two quick questions about these ECU's. Is there anyway to reset them to a 'stock' map(i.e makes no alterations to signals).

Also will I be able to put in bigger injectors and Z32 AFM and make some quick adjustments myself so I can drive it to the tuner? It looks as simple as selecting the correct AFM, and then setting the old injector size, new injector size and timing. Is this correct and will I be able to drive on this safely or is there more too it?

Cheers,

Adrian

no you should be able to set those two things (assuming you have set it for the right car ) and drive to your tuner

i drove around for ages before taking it to the tuner

although I had a wideband and was able to tune the non load points so it wasnt rich as

just dont boost it hard and you should be fine

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all. im kinda rooke in this area but have some quiestions that u guys might be able to answer. i have my emu hooked up with the plug in loom. car starts fine but it gets way to much fuel, the sparkplugs are very black, thou not wet.

I have set the correct parameters of the injectors as seen on the printscreens in the beginning of this thread. there seems to be some sort of problem cause if i set it at say 370cc and lagtime @ 0.71 at before and then changes to 850cc with a lagtime of 0.85 the car starts goes up a little in rev and then dies.

When setting both before and after to the same so it says 850 on both and same lagtime tha car runs better but still get isnae much fuel.

does make any difference if i put in 370cc onboth places either.

When taking the rev up to ~2000 rpms and letting of the gas the car stays on 2000 for a little moment and then goes down. very unresposive and runs poorly.

Any Ideas on what i can have done wrong?

Greatful for answers!

The car has those specs.

R33 gts-t

Topmount exhaust manifold.

Garret gt32 turbo

Greddystyle intake manifold.

Fmic

3" from turbo

Sard 850cc sidefeed injectors

sard progressive FPR with clock

Hks mushroom filter

This is the injector map of my EMU.

I dont know a thing about what these numbers mean really but my car is stareting to run like SH!T!

Getting alot of soot on the back now and cant run full boost without pinging.

Full is 15psi low is 10.5 runs on low boost but stinks of fuel when ever I pullup.

Does this map look normal?

Dave i still have not recieved your map, still happy to have a look over it.

[email protected]

Cheers Trent

Is there any reason or workaround for me not being able to get the car running more than 2 seconds when i put 370cc on "before" and 850 on "after" parameters in I/J settings?

If i set them to the same numbers in both before and after column it starts and runs decent.

Is there any reason or workaround for me not being able to get the car running more than 2 seconds when i put 370cc on "before" and 850 on "after" parameters in I/J settings?

If i set them to the same numbers in both before and after column it starts and runs decent.

best bet is to forget the numbers and concentrate on the results ie actual lambda. move the injector setting to say 650 then play with the lag times (0.5 - 0.9). Some injectors require thinking way outside the norm and the only way to set it up is by trial and error... bit of a bummer.

Edited by URAS
  • 1 month later...

hey trent,

the check engine light came on today on my R34 neo.

i got the tuner to install the unit + the neo ignition chip as well.

any reason why this would by happening?

car isn't miss firing or anything and is still running as normal.

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