Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i havent gotten the knock sensor to work either but i think the jumper is still set to read intake temperature (jp16 i believe).

my worry is when i tried to play with my launch control (ignition cut control), when i set it to 3000rpm it would come on at 3500rpm. same if i did it at 3500rpm, it actually came on at 4000rpm.

and when it actually engaged i got all of these errors come up saying that there was no signal for ignition (WTF??). im 100% sure ive set it up properly, is there a jumper setting that i missed somewhere?

also, how does the ignition cut feature work exactly?

how do i set it up properly? can someone give me a quick rundown on how to use it?

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have the (E) board Trent

and yeah first thing i did is check all the wiring and jumper settings in relation to knock etc

my water sensor is not wired in i believe what is wired in is Knock 1 and knock 2

maybe that is where the trouble starts

should I wire in the temp and only one knock sensor (number 2) ???

if you have time on weekend I can give you a call and we can have another look at it

Been working With TRUST JAPAN on a plug and play EMANAGE ULTIMATE kit For R33, so hopefully soon we will be able to supply a plug in. no hassle emanage ultimate solution/ equivalent to the PFC for those who are wire-in challenged.

thats good news :)

so will the plug and play kit have any effect on the over all tune on a r33 or wil jsut be exactly the same just alot easier to fit? :S

so when i order mine to get use of full features i will need these parts

-15901500

-15901501

-15500501

is that all because that is only lik 600 bucks?

thanks!

Edited by phenline

the emanage ultimate unit itself should be about 800-900.

and unless you are currently using the emanage blue those 1 of those part numbers won't be needed, and unless you are planning on wiring it in yourself you won't need the other one, you'd just get the plug and play harness.

15500501 = emanage ultimate unit

15921506 = plug and play harness, just needs 2 wires changed over for the r33.

then if you want to remove the afm you also need a map sensor and sensor adaptor.

15500501AU $ 524.80AU $ 556.92 E-Manage Ultimate

well that was the price i was looking at for it. So would you happen to knwo the Item Code for the map sensor and the sensor adaptor becuase removing the afm would be the way to go i think?

cheer

I have the (E) board Trent

and yeah first thing i did is check all the wiring and jumper settings in relation to knock etc

my water sensor is not wired in i believe what is wired in is Knock 1 and knock 2

maybe that is where the trouble starts

should I wire in the temp and only one knock sensor (number 2) ???

if you have time on weekend I can give you a call and we can have another look at it

yep thats the issue it is wired up wrong :huh:

i looked at your logs again and it is NOT logging knock for some reason i saved your log as one of cats old ones and i did not notice until i lost my shit and viewed all channels and saw map sensor V"s.... the penny dropped and i realised what was wrong.

you have to use the launch control setting of the ignition cut. i don't have the software on this computer so i can open it up to tell you the exact bit, but under the ignition tab of the settings there is a box where you can set the rpm you want to to run, and the throttle % you want it to work from. i think standard it is set at 50% throttle, so you have to have 50% throttle and be not moving before it works. if you only go to 49% throttle it will rev up to redline. but then it is also setup standard that the moment it registers that you are moving it will rev to redline. you can set this so that it will keep the revs at the set level untill you are moving a bit faster. there is a speed signal box near it where you input the number for it to go from launch to normal.

you have to use the launch control setting of the ignition cut. i don't have the software on this computer so i can open it up to tell you the exact bit, but under the ignition tab of the settings there is a box where you can set the rpm you want to to run, and the throttle % you want it to work from. i think standard it is set at 50% throttle, so you have to have 50% throttle and be not moving before it works. if you only go to 49% throttle it will rev up to redline. but then it is also setup standard that the moment it registers that you are moving it will rev to redline. you can set this so that it will keep the revs at the set level untill you are moving a bit faster. there is a speed signal box near it where you input the number for it to go from launch to normal.

ok im kind've understanding it now. i didnt know that the V.S was the vehicle speed input. i might read up on it a little more, maybe ill figure out how to set it up properly.

this is the settings box:

post-13452-1186031628_thumb.jpg

i have played around with it a little bit, but not with vehicle speed. just sitting there reving it. i haven't actually set it up and tried to launch off it either. and i haven't plaid with the ignition adjust of it either. it does bounce a bit when you hit it, but possibly altering the ignition timing may get it ro rev a bit more smoothly may help it hold the revs a bit more steady.

i have played around with it a little bit, but not with vehicle speed. just sitting there reving it. i haven't actually set it up and tried to launch off it either. and i haven't plaid with the ignition adjust of it either. it does bounce a bit when you hit it, but possibly altering the ignition timing may get it ro rev a bit more smoothly may help it hold the revs a bit more steady.

yeah thats what ive done. the remap on my car has made the new fuel cut at around 7700rpm, i used the ignition cut feature to make it come in at 7300 but im not happy with how it comes on i might need to make it -20 as its now at -10. -20 makes it backfire a bit and im just not sure if its safe for it to be taking that much timing away at that high of a rev.

i just need to figure out the other settings to make it work properly.

yeah thats what ive done. the remap on my car has made the new fuel cut at around 7700rpm, i used the ignition cut feature to make it come in at 7300 but im not happy with how it comes on i might need to make it -20 as its now at -10. -20 makes it backfire a bit and im just not sure if its safe for it to be taking that much timing away at that high of a rev.

i just need to figure out the other settings to make it work properly.

Do you realise that the retard is designed to be used to build boost and is meant to be used in conjunction with the launch control? we managed to get some pretty good boost on the rb at 4000rpm :(... only issue is with ours there is no spd signal (no loom or sensor) so we cant actually use the launch control feature :(

Do you realise that the retard is designed to be used to build boost and is meant to be used in conjunction with the launch control? we managed to get some pretty good boost on the rb at 4000rpm :(... only issue is with ours there is no spd signal (no look or sensor) so we cant actually use the launch control feature :(

do you mind giving us a run down on how we would use the feature? i.e. by giving us some usual settings and what they mean?

pretty please ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...