Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed Hids On My R33!


sl33ek
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There is no such thing as a good kit period. Halogen housings have different optics to xenon housings, so they cannot focus the light properly. End of story. The only option is a retrofit of oem hid into the housing.

I'm guessing that you hvae an r34 gtt? with the xenons that have been converted from compliance?

I forgot the blokes name, but there's someone with a black r34 on here who put a kit converted headlights. The light output was crap, because the kit puts the focal point of the bulb in the wrong spot.

Go oem. r34 headlights aren't that expensive. I've seen them go for $600 for the pair in perfect nic.

hmm how do i get OEM?? I contacted my car dearler.. 1 guy said ok.. and another told me they can't do it (bastard).. it'll cost me 800 bucks and that he'll (the guy who said that it can't be done) ask his 'friend' about it..

is 600 bucks about the price for them to make it OEM R34 xenon headlights for me?

heers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've seen halogen (4 door/non turbo) assemblies go for $600, but watching what people are finding over in the Slidewize R34 gear thread, low $900's is the lowest i've seen him quote how much a pair of xenons will cost from the yahoo auctions (delivered)

If you look at your lights evil, do you see the word 'Xenon' embossed anywhere?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've seen halogen (4 door/non turbo) assemblies go for $600, but watching what people are finding over in the Slidewize R34 gear thread, low $900's is the lowest i've seen him quote how much a pair of xenons will cost from the yahoo auctions (delivered)

If you look at your lights evil, do you see the word 'Xenon' embossed anywhere?

I'm looking at those Xenon HID kits on eBay, sells for around $200-$600.

Thinking of getting 1 but dunno if it'll fit or not, what's the criteria?

And does any1 know the diff between xenon & bi-xenon ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

110% gtst - have you read a single thing that was said in this thread? If you had, then obviously, you wouldn't buy it.

nah not really, maybe the 8000k bulb will be less blinding, anyway does the Series I & II both have H1s?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ali, check out Ronin's thread.

The projector's with HID kits are passable from what i've heard. Obviously not the best option.

how handy are you with building things, electrics, etc? maybe you can do a retro fit yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ronin (marcus) still had some Honda Euro projectors according to his thread, maybe give him a buzz and see? If it's clean cut off you want, hard to go passed a Euro projector

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey ali,

The link that gohan posted up is spot on the money. It is the only 'Real' and 'proper' way of doing things.

r32 headlights are renouned for being the crappest lights ever. If you don't want to go the retrofit option, the best light you can get is probably a set of plus 50 bulbs, relayed so that they get the full 13.8 volts (instead of the 10-11 volts they usually get).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...