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I got my powerFC tuned today and went from 175rwhp to 252rwhp with .8bar.

Problem is, the engine check light kept coming on when adding timing from about 210rwhp. The light flashed every 0.5 seconds which the powerFC manual says is caused by:

- injectors may be at maximum capacity.

The powerFC H/C reported that the max injector cycle was 72%, he also checked that each cylinder wasn't tuned to receive more fuel than others, and they wern't.

He checked for pinging but could not hear any (powerFC manual states the engine check light flashes very quickly when pinging).

I've got an adj, fuel regulator as well as a 400hp fuel pump.

I'll add pics of my dyno sheets once i get access to a scanner.

Any ideas why my check engine light comes on?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

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Ben, I meant HP.

I've got full exhaust, pod filter, high flowed turbo, high flow cat, exhaust cam gear, profec B EBC, adj, fuel regulator, 400hp fuel pump, powerFC + H/C.

Oops, forgot to tell you where I got the tune done.

It was at Procar in Dee Why/Cromer (on the northern beaches). The guy tuned it in such a way as to be conservitive because I told him I want the engine to last more than 6months.

He told me if I wanted more power, get some better pistons and maybe ditch the powerFC in favour of an autronic unit. That way I could reliable increase the boost since i've got a high flowed turbo.

From memory, I think he said the AFM or something wasn't working.

Mark

Did he check to make sure that all the plugs (electrical not spark) were in correctly? Sometimes the need to be given a quite decent squeez to be conected properly... especially the one that is connected to the afm.

ditch the powerFC in favour of an autronic unit

What an absolute crock of sh1t, dude.

Wanna know how many 800hp+++ cars out there use Power FC's?!??!

Ridiculous and obviously ignorant statement for the tuner to have made.

Go to someone who knows PowerFC's.

It's no use going to someone who sells the opposition.

Heaps of people I've been to have slagged off the PowerFC for some ECU they sell.

What's the point of getting it tuned with them?

The PowerFC has no problems with almost any setup. Granted in high HP situations, a z32 AFM is better but there's no reason why you cannot get 250 RWKW from an r33 AFM and the usual bits.

T.

Hi MRK25T, the PFC Commander will display all the information you need to determine what problem is causing the check engine light to come on.

I usually just drive around with someone else watching the Commander display and noting what the readings are when the light flashes. It could be any one of the sensors, so I won't speculate, it's a waste of time. You need to identify it accurately and the Commander is a great tool for doing that.

Hope that helps

Thanks for all the replies. I never have the car on boost so I can take my time trying to figure out what is wrong.

YRL05S,

It isn't pinging, the engine check light flashes 10 times/sec if it notices pinging. The light flashed 2 times per sec which the apexi documentation (stolen from the usa web site as I cant read the japanese manual) states is the injectors are at maximum capacity.

As stated before, the commander said my injectors were at 72.3% duty so can I rule out injectors?

Sydneykid,

Any hints which figures I should be looking at?

Tony/2rismo,

He knows powerFCs and thinks they are good, but he prefers autronic.

got to go, boss is in.

Mark

Originally posted by SLY33

if he means 252rwHP (~190rwkw) then it shouldnt be maxing out...  

it was made at only 0.8 bar so it is unlikely 250rwkw

My afm was maxing out (at 4500rpm) with less than 200 rwkw. And I am not the only one. My check engine light used to flash every time I hit 4500 with the throttle floored. Fixed it with a Z32 afm - now voltage only reaches 4.45.

The power fc can have the check engine light flash for a few different reasons, afm, injectors, knock.

If you go into your monitor mode with peak hold selected, take the car for a drive, and when you get the check engine light BACK OFF straight away. Then check all your different parameters - something will probably show up.

If it is your afm, everything should be ok - ie not urgent to upgrade afm - as long as the tuning was done with an oxygen sensor attached, your af ratios wont be too lean, especially if you are not registering excessive knock.

Steve

If FC says injectors then i reckon it might be your injectors

Just drop the tuning back down a little bit till the light stops coming on. Alternatively put new fuel system in, your call :D

But your tuners obviously not the most cluey FC guy considering he bags em? FCs kick ass

My 2 cents

Oh and i know a lot of AFMS peak at different points but for the record mine still ok at 250rwkws only hit voltage ceiling for last 500-750 rpm.

He told me if I wanted more power, get some better pistons and maybe ditch the powerFC in favour of an autronic unit.

Haha, so he can charge you for the installation, and its what he knows because he doesn't know how to use the powerFC properly (or willing to learn)

So half the japanese tuning houses and their 1000hp GTR must be all wrong then?? :)

Hi MRK25T, you asked "Any hints which figures I should be looking at?".............

1. make sure the injector duty does not go over 80% (ignore spikes due to acceleration enrichment).

2. make sure the AFM voltage does not go over 5V

3. make sure the knock sensor does not record continuous detonation at your maximum boost level

4. make sure the battery voltage does not go under 13V

5. check the ignition timing trace, I have seen rogue entries in the maps where the advance suddenly jumps (at a certain load point) for no good reason.

6. ditto injector duty

7. check the rpm, throttle position and speed traces, a faulty sensor will sometimes make the check light come on and without the ECU dropping into limp home mode.

8. check the boost trace for spikes, similar result to rogue map entries

Hope that helps

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by predator666

Haha, so he can charge you for the installation, and its what he knows because he doesn't know how to use the powerFC properly (or willing to learn)  

So half the japanese tuning houses and their 1000hp GTR must be all wrong then?? :)

and once u pull the engine apart to change psitons, he will have to check for any slightly bent rods, check the crank for cracks, head and oil pump. Once u go down this path of pulling the engine apart it costs mega bucks.

Inasnt: i've already upgraded the fuel system except for injectors. The injectors are at 72%.

I think my AFM is stuffed.

sydney: I dont understand 1/2 the tips you gave me but I am going to try them out. I've followed your suggestions sofar (I pm you under the name "nme" on the skylines downunder forum last year and you told me what to get - and i did.

Since my gfs scanner is out of action i'm going to take photos of the dyno graphs which may shed some light on my problem.

Mark

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