Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I installed a Trust Power Extreme II system on my R33 today, now when I give it a squirt the engine chokes and splutters at 5,000rpm almost on the dot every time in any gear except for first. There is no loss of power except for a bit of hesitation when it splutters. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing it.

My mods are only 3 inch dump/front pipe, 3inch hi flow cat, 80mm trust exhaust, pod filter and FMIC with the standard solenoid grounded.

I don't have an aftermarket ECU, so does this mean I'll be needing a tune or is it an injectors problem, sparks, coil packs or anything.... It's only happened since I installed the catback, it was fine with the dump and cat done previously.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161717-spluttering-after-exhaust-install/
Share on other sites

Well I'd be looking at the coil packs first off. Very common problem, could just be a coincedence that it occured after fitting the exhaust. If the coil packs are the same as the 32's then I'd be pulling them out and checking all the carbon ends/springs. Mine did the same thing a while ago and I found the all the carbon ends had burnt out, replaced them all along with new spark plugs and the problem was fixed. The carbon ends sit on top of the spark plugs, if you pull the ends off the coils they are exposed and can be replaced easily enough. Not expensive either.

I take it this is in an R33 GTST? do you have a boost gauge fitted? what boost is it now hitting with the free-er flowing exhaust and the intake mods?

maybe you're hitting the boost cut on the factory ECU (though unlikely if its not losing power)

Yeah its a GTST.

Boost is hitting around 10 PSI. A boost controller should be arriving on monday, I thought that the boost may be spiking (I couldn't see it when I was driving but 10 PSI isn't far from 12 so it may be the case), but as you said, its probably not that if its not losing power. The boost controller should stop the spiking (if its there), then I'll look to see if its in fact the coilpacks.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Hopefully its not the coilpacks, as my knowledge is pretty limited when it comes to ignition problems.

Edited by ProphetR33

What type of spark plugs are you using at the moment?? you need to be running a heat range 6 plug with a 0.8mm gap, ngk BCPR6ES is what im using at the moment and they are fine so far, my mods are hks silent power catback, decat pipe, fmic and solenoid grounding mod.

Bigger exhaust means an increase in boost, this means you need a better spark to ignite the mixture. If your coilpacks are shagged then it will cause the misfire, if you have a stock ECU with the extra boost its probably running very rich which also needs a better spark to ignite. A combination of a tune (new ECU, fuel piggyback), better spark plugs gapped to ~.6-8 (if standard coil packs) or .8-1 if you get some splitfires should cure the problem.

Not sure about which sparks I'm running at the moment, I'll crack it open and have a look when I get a chance.

Thanks for all the help guys its much appreciated, when my boost controller arrives I'll just run it on 7 PSI to be safe at the moment, then check the sparks on the weekend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...