Jump to content
SAU Community

Extractors

MissR34

By MissR34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

heya cara,

i ran the extractor group buy. i knew a guy who was selling his extractors since he was selling his car, but i'm not sure if he's changed his mind...

try getting in contact with this guy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=159047

we got ours from a place over in new zealand. it's been a total nightmare for me to organize it, they aren't the best in terms of communication, and i was constantly on the phone trying to chase them up. i initially only ran one group buy, but everyone wanted a 2nd one most of them have received theirs.

we are waiting on two who opted for a slightly slower delivery method. if you really want i can PM you their web address and details, but i wouldnt be promoting their services freely after the headaches i had to deal with.

the alternative is to order a set of fujitsubo from japan, you are looking at $1600+ delivery.

another alternative is RB30 extractors (easily located within australia) and having the flanges cut off and modified to fit your exhaust ports.

cheers

eug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161828-extractors/#findComment-3005073
Share on other sites
MissR34 Grand Master

MissR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey Eug,

how hard and how much headache is there with cutting the flanges off with the RB30? is it a fair amount of work that has to be done for it to fit my RB25? does it work out cheaper to do it that way?

Thanks

Cara

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161828-extractors/#findComment-3005092
Share on other sites
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

cara,

any exhaust shop can cut the flanges off. hell even i could do it with an angle grinder (bit dodgy though :unsure:).

a quick break down of what's involved:

firstly, you'd have to make sure that the port sizes are at least similar or the same.

then, cut off the flanges

get flanges made up and weld them onto the RB30 ones.

it's a pretty rough method, and price wise it'd definitely work out more than the prices i managed to organize for the group buy. although if you know someone with a mig and with a bit of skills, and could snap up a set of extractors cheaply then it'd work out similar.

hope that helps

eug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161828-extractors/#findComment-3005186
Share on other sites
342Four Grand Master

342Four

Posted
Posted

any good reputable exhaust shop would be able to do this no worries

the only thing that could cause a prob is the clearance around steering components, and the angle of attachment as the rb25 is a DOHC, whereas the rb30 is a SOHC (ie rb25 head is further out than rb30, if u get my drift)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161828-extractors/#findComment-3005856
Share on other sites
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

cara,

with 4 (or more) buyers in our group buy the extractors cost AUD$185ea, plus a AUD$15ea gasket, and hp coating cost AUD$170 (optional) combine that with international delivery of approximately AUD$60-70.

you have yourself a set of basic extractors for as little as AUD$260 to a fully macked out set for AUD$430'ish.

$1200 is a rip off unless they plan on using titanium tuned length with gps system built in or something fancy.

eug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161828-extractors/#findComment-3011358
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...