Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just looking at some cheap intercoolers on ebay and wondering if i should be wary of no-name brands when it comes to this sort of thing? as far as i'm aware, the most likely problems might be with the welding, but other than that is there anything i should look out for?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FMIC-600x300x105-TU...1QQcmdZViewItem

this is the intercooler in question. any advice/opinions would be sweet, cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161832-buying-no-name-intercoolers/
Share on other sites

Dont get one from ebay

Just goto the Forum Business Traders section, they are all tried/approved traders etc.

And thier prices really are not that much more.

For $30-$40, its safe insurance.

Also support the people that support this website :P

I bought one off ebay. Will tell you how it goes in terms of fitting and performance.

They are ALL the same and the only safe insurance you gain in spending 30-40 dollars more (or in my case 100 dollars more) is that you are dealing with a business that has given you an address to yell at if something goes wrong. Though, the one I bought off ebay did too and has a great trader rating with most parts being over 200-300 dollars..

those $100 SSAC ebay ones are great. at that price you wont cry your eyes out when you wrap it around a graud rail. the piping you get with the kits is another story though. i had one on my old S13 and it worked fine. the core is spot on with the high end ones.

there ya go, right from the horses mouth or so to speak. oh thats ok to say that nismoid, i know ull argue every point. china - china = same.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
those $100 SSAC ebay ones are great. at that price you wont cry your eyes out when you wrap it around a graud rail. the piping you get with the kits is another story though. i had one on my old S13 and it worked fine. the core is spot on with the high end ones.

Um yes all china cores are the same (high end) but when you compare them to the real high end tube and fin varietys you will find they are no-where near even alike.

TRUST V-SPL are nothing like their R-SPL and BLITZ are nothing like either of those two and ALL are tube and fin...... i have tested all these back to back and there is no correct answer as to which one is best as it all comes down to APPLICATION.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...