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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...daughter++board

Check out this thread for a start. There are numerous links in there for peopel who make the daughter boards, people who tune etc.

Dr Drift is someone who is well known for remaps. He'll be able to help you out if you shoot him a pm.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...daughter++board

Check out this thread for a start. There are numerous links in there for peopel who make the daughter boards, people who tune etc.

Dr Drift is someone who is well known for remaps. He'll be able to help you out if you shoot him a pm.

thanks alot mate

I asked Dr Drift about tuning an R34 ECU and he said they really need to be done in real time on the dyno.

yeah all tuning should be done in real time, road or dyno. Pre-tunes are not that effective especially in remaps

I have one question about all this re-mapping business... as you may or may not know; the Nissan ECUs on the Skylines are all "hybrid" ECUs (i.e. they change / adapt their parameters to cope with the new conditions wherever they are run). This is the reason why most people say to reset your ECUs after you install items such as Pod Filters; Boost Bleed Valves etc etc.

Now; even after a remap I am lead to believe that the "hybrid" essence of it is not removed - it is still a learning computer as such and will adapt it's new parameters to suit conditions such as air temp; fuel quality; etc etc. Wouldn't this mean that over time; the ECUs "tune" will turn into something else all together?

On the contrary; if the re-map is such that it "locks" the parameters in without letting it change, then there is another problem... what if your car was tuned on a really warm day and you go for a fang on a cold rainy night? What does the ECU do then when it's faced with such extreme differences of conditions? Obviously an ECU that is locked down will not have the leverage to move enough along the maps to compensate for this.

BTW; what is the resolution on the standard ECUs? I'm under the impression that they are lower than a PowerFC which is set at 24x24 I think (correct me if I'm wrong on this one)

I have one question about all this re-mapping business... as you may or may not know; the Nissan ECUs on the Skylines are all "hybrid" ECUs (i.e. they change / adapt their parameters to cope with the new conditions wherever they are run). This is the reason why most people say to reset your ECUs after you install items such as Pod Filters; Boost Bleed Valves etc etc.

Now; even after a remap I am lead to believe that the "hybrid" essence of it is not removed - it is still a learning computer as such and will adapt it's new parameters to suit conditions such as air temp; fuel quality; etc etc. Wouldn't this mean that over time; the ECUs "tune" will turn into something else all together?

On the contrary; if the re-map is such that it "locks" the parameters in without letting it change, then there is another problem... what if your car was tuned on a really warm day and you go for a fang on a cold rainy night? What does the ECU do then when it's faced with such extreme differences of conditions? Obviously an ECU that is locked down will not have the leverage to move enough along the maps to compensate for this.

BTW; what is the resolution on the standard ECUs? I'm under the impression that they are lower than a PowerFC which is set at 24x24 I think (correct me if I'm wrong on this one)

Um, I think you have totally misunderstood the way the ecu works. I will explain it later maybe tonight.

Wish i could help with the auto learning part of the stock ecu - all i know is that it is not something you can rely on.

As for the computer that is locked - then your talking about a computer that has been re-mapped and does not change no matter what. Stock computers have knock sensors which retard the timing if the engine gets detonation which will change the tune (not sure if the computer learns that its pinging and keeps the ign maps retarted for a while or not)

As for a after market computer side of things they have all kinds of corrections. so you can set the map to run more timing when the intake temps are down and run less when they are higher and also run richer or leaner on different temps etc etc.

A power FC for rb25 only really has correction for water temp so the tuner needs to compensate the tune for these conditions and it mainly only helps with cold starts so you gotta compensate the tune a bit which can be hard...

The microtech may be a shit computer but it has all kinds of corrections you can play with.

anyway the moral to the story is.. your a dickhead if your hammering your car when its really hot and your asking it to blow up when you do.

good computers like autronic / motec etc etc have all kinds of compensation settings that can be tuned for those hot days etc etc.

I have one question about all this re-mapping business... as you may or may not know; the Nissan ECUs on the Skylines are all "hybrid" ECUs (i.e. they change / adapt their parameters to cope with the new conditions wherever they are run). This is the reason why most people say to reset your ECUs after you install items such as Pod Filters; Boost Bleed Valves etc etc.

Now; even after a remap I am lead to believe that the "hybrid" essence of it is not removed - it is still a learning computer as such and will adapt it's new parameters to suit conditions such as air temp; fuel quality; etc etc. Wouldn't this mean that over time; the ECUs "tune" will turn into something else all together?

On the contrary; if the re-map is such that it "locks" the parameters in without letting it change, then there is another problem... what if your car was tuned on a really warm day and you go for a fang on a cold rainy night? What does the ECU do then when it's faced with such extreme differences of conditions? Obviously an ECU that is locked down will not have the leverage to move enough along the maps to compensate for this.

BTW; what is the resolution on the standard ECUs? I'm under the impression that they are lower than a PowerFC which is set at 24x24 I think (correct me if I'm wrong on this one)

Guilt-Toy; if you are correct, which I think you are then you have explained what I have said.

Thanks!

I especially like your views on the "corrections" you couldn't be more right - my ECU has tonnes of correction factors which must be tuned to ensure the car is running right.

I blew my engine with a remap. Not the remaps fault but it didn't retard anything enough to save my engine.

actually this feature is about the only thing that i really like about remaps (generally not a fan at all due to the fact you are tied to one tuner or remapers only and if your away you cant get it looked at) is that it does have knock retard secondary maps, i would be blaming the tune in your remap not the remap. If it was PFC it would have probaly blown even quicker.....

agreed. your tuner probably had the retard map the same as the normal map. A remap in itself can be as good as a powerfc tune or better. No discussion.

At the end of the day, it comes down the tuner/remapper. i've seen plenty of shit remaps, and plenty of shit powerfc tunes. I've also seen a few good remaps and a few good tunes too.

The price that people seem to be charging for remaps/tunes though are an absolute steal. There is no way I would pay that much for it.

Like lets say 50-60 an hour. I have never seen a tuner spend 10 hours doing a 'normal tune' to justify the 5-600 cost.

agreed. your tuner probably had the retard map the same as the normal map. A remap in itself can be as good as a powerfc tune or better. No discussion.

At the end of the day, it comes down the tuner/remapper. i've seen plenty of shit remaps, and plenty of shit powerfc tunes. I've also seen a few good remaps and a few good tunes too.

The price that people seem to be charging for remaps/tunes though are an absolute steal. There is no way I would pay that much for it.

Like lets say 50-60 an hour. I have never seen a tuner spend 10 hours doing a 'normal tune' to justify the 5-600 cost.

paying 500 dollars for a tune is akin to paying 5000 to a lawyer.... you are paying for experience not for hours spent.

i think 500 for a full faultless tune is a bargain but i do have issues with people charging 500 to tune mearly the power curve which many do.

Edited by URAS

I think you'll find that tuning comes at a cost of $100-$150 an hour...

My last 3 tunes have taken a minimum of 8 hours - and yes I was there watching the whole time :happy:

As URAS said; it's experience and quality - not the time.

My tune was setup for 0.9 bar and I split a hose going to the boost controller. Stupidly I increased the boost duty cycle massively, thus putting about 1.3 bar into it.

It went bang. Still got me around Wakefield about 30-40 times and home to Sydney again but used an awefully large amount of fuel doing it.

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