Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I was planning to buy a R33 Series 2 GTST in another 2-3 months and kind of looking around at the moment. I do not have any idea about the skylines and was wondering if you guys can help me out with some advice. i.e. buy it through private or dealer, what to look for, stuffs like that. What I want is something stock and not tampered in anyway. Also if you guys know any mechanic who would be a specialist on skylines that will be great as well. Hope you guys will be able to shed some light..............Thanks in advance.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162096-need-your-advice-to-buy-a-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I was planning to buy a R33 Series 2 GTST in another 2-3 months and kind of looking around at the moment. I do not have any idea about the skylines and was wondering if you guys can help me out with some advice. i.e. buy it through private or dealer, what to look for, stuffs like that. What I want is something stock and not tampered in anyway. Also if you guys know any mechanic who would be a specialist on skylines that will be great as well. Hope you guys will be able to shed some light..............Thanks in advance.

Cheers.

To start you off - there is a thread by Merli - its a sticky and has all the stuff u need to look for when you go to buy a skyline -> here . Next, go to SSV in Oakleigh and have a look at the cars they have there. Cars there are excellent. Speak to Mark, he will help you out. And finally, i take my car to RE Customs (springvale) for its service and mods - Ray is a member of sau (SXR), and he will make sure your car is running without any problems.

Got my R33 from Wayne at GTAuto Compliance in croydon - he does the compliance work for the cars that come through the J-spec guys i think. You can talk to him as well, he will give you good info. He spent heaps of time going through the ins and outs of buying an import. Def worth speaking to him as well.

My advice is to look at both dealers/importers and private sales as well. Private sales, you can get some mad cars with heaps of work done for a good price. There was a white r33 with heaps of mods, and went for 23k or something (series 2). Im pretty sure the guy who owned it is still a member here - he has a celsior now i think.

Dealers/Importers give u the 3 year warranty - not needed if the car is in great condition - but useful to have in any case.

Edited by emsta2003
One piece of advise.............

STOCK = WASTE OF TIME

You WILL get board, and you WILL want more power......you WILL waste money on mods to get there then think, I should have bought a Mod'ed car.

Take if from those who know :(

i think there are many advantages of buying a stock car

- You can modify it how YOU like, not how someone else liked to do things

- If you get stung for a defect/epa you have all standard parts, rather then having to source/borrow/buy stock parts

- If you start modified... you'll get bored also and want more then more.. but its VERY expensive to modify past a certain point

- Buy a stock one and feel the power levels increase with your hard earned modifications, will make you enjoy the car more

what do they say? "Built, not Bought!"

just my 2c

i think there are many advantages of buying a stock car

- You can modify it how YOU like, not how someone else liked to do things

- If you get stung for a defect/epa you have all standard parts, rather then having to source/borrow/buy stock parts

- If you start modified... you'll get bored also and want more then more.. but its VERY expensive to modify past a certain point

- Buy a stock one and feel the power levels increase with your hard earned modifications, will make you enjoy the car more

what do they say? "Built, not Bought!"

just my 2c

stock is waste of money. Be patient and buy a good one for only a little more.

i'll strip mine back to stock...an the parts can come with the car.....you can put em back on one by one & feel the progression.....lmao ;)

Best of luck BlueDemon.....there's heaps of stock 33's out there, so you can be as picky as you like an get exactly what your after

Cheers

this has quickly turned into a "buy mine" thread hasnt it......this is why there hard to sell....we're all selling them

you were the first person to say "buy mine" so you can hardly talk!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...