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Safc Or Piggyback Computer? (eg Emanage)

so_tred

By so_tred,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking ahead into the future thinking about what I need to be getting first etc.

At the end of the day I'm planning on having the following mods on my car:

Full 3" exhaust

FMIC

Pod

Standard turbo

No boost controller (just whatever comes from having the exhaust)

Will I be safe going for the Apexi SAFC NEO?

Since they're pretty basic mods will adjusting the air:fuel ratios be enough to give me a safe tune with no knocking etc?

At what level of mods/boost/power does the timing go retarded? (I don't know much about this which is why I'm asking because I know the SAFC can't adjust timing at all)

Edited by so_tred
MoogLe Community Regular

MoogLe

Posted
Posted

a safc IS a piggy back as far as i know,

maybe you're confusing piggy back with standalone?

i'm not extremely well informed on skylines yet but my guess is that you would be fine with a neo with those mods... especially if you're not going to touch the boost at all....

lingeringsoul Grand Master

lingeringsoul

Posted
Posted

if you are not going to increase the boost then I don't see why you would need the larger intercooler when the standard side mount can more than handle the tiny increase in boost from the exhaust mod. Piggy back like the SAFC or SAFC2 should be enough to clean up the curve. Yes you will get people telling you to get a powerFC and that it is better yadi yadi ya...........but since you are only going to do the exhaust mods then it would just be overkill to have a powerfc.

But if you are going to doing more mods later on then yes.....go with the powerfc

so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry, cleared it up a little. I meant piggyback as in the GReddy Emanage or something similar.

PowerFC is out for me anyway as it's an auto.

The FMIC is there because in the more distant future I probably will chase more power & get a bigger turbo etc..and let's face it, I like the look of them :P So I'm just doing it now instead of later.

Edited by so_tred
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

what he said ^^^^^

u should only see about 10psi max, in the coldest weather, with free flowing exhaust. so R&R wont be a prob.

cleaning up your AFR's will get you more power, and maybe better economy.

I use a unichip, they're cheap to pick up these days, they control afr's and timing. mine also has a boost controller module that uses the stock solenoid to control boost. very stealthy :P But you need to find soemone who tunes unichip. most tuners wont / dont tune them. Ive got a great place in sydney (C&V Performance), but that doesnt help you.

on the other hand, safc will do the basic afr's for you. anyone can tune those.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeah everyone hates them. but then u find soemone thats been tuning them for years, and they get the best out of them.

but it seems irrelevant to this thread now since the thread starter has clarified a few things.

edit: but you cant tell me u'd go with an safc, over a unichip. that was my point, after reading the original topic question.

Edited by Munkyb0y
nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
Posted

Be careful, SK has mentioned that some R34 GTTs hit R&R at 9psi.

After an exhaust, you should be fine, will probably get a tiny flat spot around 5000, but only a very tiny one. I did.

Also a FMIC will bring the boost a little higher as well, so by then you'd prob get R&R and a bigger flat spot. This is partly why I havent put on a FMIC.

Check around this other R34 GTT owners to see what their experiences have been. Let us know how you go. I've subscribed to this seeing as the findings in this also affect my mod plans.

I would say a SAFC would be fine enough for what we want, especially with the stockish level of boost.

Note: I dont think the car will be knocking much with an exhaust and FMIC, the standard ECU should provide protection against that by hitting R&R. I think what you want to do is get the most from the exhaust and FMIC without hitting R&R, and thats where the computer comes in. Chances are a badly tuned computer will be more likely to knock than one with the standard ECU only. (i might be wrong hahah)

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