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TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here. Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly. -
Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
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Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case). -
Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
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