Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm ok so i'm looking for a car at the moment ( | | this close to 21) and i can't decide what to get.

Now R32 GTR in my opinion is better looking than a R33 GTR and has the nicest front of any skyline (!). Any R32 i would look at would be freshly resprayed and preferably have a rebuilt engine, so i'd be looking at around 30k. R32's also weigh less than a 33 GTR, and with the same engine in it would do betteer over the 1/4.

Now R33 GTR's are not ugly but don't exactly look nice, the just seem too big and camry/magna like. That said i still wouldnt mind buying one (although i wouldnt ever consider a GTS-T) The plus to the R33 will be a newer engine and better overall condition (it's only really the engine i'm worried about mind you) and the price tag would be around 30-35k i believe.

The R34 GTT are good looking at the front (almost as good looking as R32's) and have the nicest sides and back in my opinion but are slow compared to the others. The main pull in one would be because they look real nice.. if i can get one and put a decent engine (rb26) in it for under 30k that'd be pretty sweet (and i see them for as low as 25 so its not tooo much of a dream) but i'm not sure how the gearbox etc would hold up

Granted that everyone will have different opinions on what looks best which option would you take if you were ME?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162209-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-or-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

LOL not a GTR at 21 thats for sure

Go the 34 GT-T it new its clean, it has more gizmo's, wont break down (as much) , easy to mod and are going fairly cheaply these days. The up keep of any GTR is wallet draining at the best of times.

The guy going to england for 2 years will sell his soon, go and buy that one, looks mean as

Yeh, I was looking at the one in the for sale section (yellow one) looks yum and for only 27 it seemed ok, sorta inspired me towards 34's. Only major down was it won't be much faster than my 32 gtst was when i first bought it (b4 mods) and that cost me only $13k. I'm not worried about up keep price as i don't have anything else to spend money on

Like? I mean 5-10-15k more and u get a newer engine.. paint will be new on any r32 i buy and most of the ground components will still be holding up fine, right. Also R32 GTR 92 and a R33GTR 93 will probably show the same signs of wear across the grid right?

I had the same decision when i was look for a skyline and you are the only one that can decide what you want, personly i wanted a good allround car ( drags, track, daily driver ) so that meant for me a GTR was the only option and same the car yard had both 32 and 33 for $5 grand differance so i drove both and felt the 32 the better of the two for to drive, so my advice is decide what YOU want the car for and which one like to look at more and go testing.

maintenance costs of a STOCKISH GT-R are nowhere near as bad as people seem to believe. yes, parts cost more than your average car, but things won't go bang if you have a car that is still in a stockish state of tune and if you drive the car with a little restraint.

with that being said, if you want something newer, then go the R34. fast, attractive, highly desirable.

i; however; chose to go the GT-R route and i don't regret it for a second. a GT-R is a GT-R, the handling(once you learn to treat it like a RWD with lots of traction) is absolutely astonishing. i have taken a couple of mates from uni for a spin, and they all can't believe the cornering ability of the beast.

plus its a GT-R, most street cred you can have in an import!!! :(

maintenance costs of a STOCKISH GT-R are nowhere near as bad as people seem to believe. yes, parts cost more than your average car, but things won't go bang if you have a car that is still in a stockish state of tune and if you drive the car with a little restraint.

with that being said, if you want something newer, then go the R34. fast, attractive, highly desirable.

i; however; chose to go the GT-R route and i don't regret it for a second. a GT-R is a GT-R, the handling(once you learn to treat it like a RWD with lots of traction) is absolutely astonishing. i have taken a couple of mates from uni for a spin, and they all can't believe the cornering ability of the beast.

plus its a GT-R, most street cred you can have in an import!!! :(

lol that's true as well

Hey, can anyone tell me.. Would my old Rb20 in my gtst be more reliable/take more crap than a rb26? Or is the main issue how much thrashing it's taken before? Never had any trouble with my rb20 and that thing used to see redlines 20+ times a day is all

Lol yeh true but, the body roll is enough to bring tears and the body slip is even worse (it has buckets but every time i turn a corner i still manage to slide out of it and smack into the door) It's more of a cruiser, it'll have engine work done to it, but it'll stay a side project, i want the gtr for my actual car, car

I had this decision, built 32R, lightly modedd 33R or lightly moded 34T and went the 34 gt-t due to age and the fact its still a quick cruiser.

I can say in terms of grip the 33 gtr is amazing! Whilst the 32 gtr isn't far behind (older diffs, slower computers etc) and is slightly quicker down the 1/4.

Im happy with the choice i made, but if you want a real fast car you can't really go past a gtr, its got grip (more than a gt-t will ever know) and more power to it, it just feels alittle bit less chuckable, but you take a corner and your like wow did it just do that corner that easy.. least thats the impression ive had in the gtr's ive been in (decent tires/suspension etc).

Id probably lean to a 32 gtr thats had alot of money spent on it if i was you, just so in future you don't have ALL of the costs or the 34 gt-t if you want some more comfort to cruise with.

Btw if you search there's alot of comparison threads going around, i know i posted in a few of them! hehe

Edited by jazza08
Only major down was it won't be much faster than my 32 gtst was when i first bought it (b4 mods)

a r34 gt-t will be faster than a r32 gts-t, and once the usual mods are done it will be much faster.

i say go the gt-t route. what you save on the cost of buying the car (and on insurance), you could get a gt-t and make it go faster than a lot of GTRs. and you wouldn't have to go rb26 to do it. just go rb25/30 with a big squid bolted on the side.

im sort of in the same boat 1993 r32 gts-t or a 95/96/97 r33. hard choice because i'm 18 and with r33's power to weight blah blah blah.

go the r33. they have a stronger motor (and go faster), nicer interior, and are generally in better condition due to being newer.

a r34 gt-t will be faster than a r32 gts-t, and once the usual mods are done it will be much faster.

i say go the gt-t route. what you save on the cost of buying the car (and on insurance), you could get a gt-t and make it go faster than a lot of GTRs. and you wouldn't have to go rb26 to do it. just go rb25/30 with a big squid bolted on the side.

What'll that set me back :( rb30 block from a vl (so has low comp) $1500? (assuming won't need rebuilding) and then just use the top half of the engine i have now. and then a decent sized hks turbs, so i'm looking at about 10k? Also will i get that power to the ground? my 32 gts-t couldnt get 190rwkw to the ground in 1st, would spin as soon as it hit boost (on 265 dunlop SP maxx's with no lowering) will a rwd 34 with that much balls manage to put it down without slicks? It has to be sorta streetable because i will occasionally drive it to work and such

Agreed with above comments on 34 interior.

R33s dont have a stronger motor, more powerful yes. I dont think there's much in the interior's, the 33 is too spacey for my liking but yes its a good point its a newer car thus will always have less problems unless the r32 has been built (not just the motor).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam camp bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
    • I had the same previously, and it really shits me. They just run off red book averages or whatever as the maximum insured, there are never good quality cars available to buy for anywhere near those prices. I don't even understand why they do it. Sure having a customer overinsure then false claim is a risk, but how often does that really happen in the world, 1%? 0.1%? On the other hand, all 10-20% above redbook listed prices and charge 10-20% higher premium, surely that is more profitable for those cockroaches
    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
×
×
  • Create New...