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Yeh 34's look sh*t hot hhehe :(

300-400rwhp will be fairly streetable if you have an ok suspension etc set-up

Don't expect any grip in 1st and not much in 2nd even with new 265s on the back..

Anything more won't be really.. and your talkin rb30 block etc, you wouldn't bother with that unless your goin 400++rwhp!

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Ah ok i wasn't sure, (+ i thought a 400rwhp rb25/30 was a good combo for me coz of the streetability when compared to a 400rwhp rb25) coz i mean my old 32 used to fry the tyres in 1st and that had about 220rwhp lol. Guess all in all, 32 GTR is choice for me then

mate a 400hp car is useless for a daily driver, you will be able to get the wheels spinning in 3rd,(RWD)

and in the wet its a different story you have to granny driving, i have 295 tires on my gtr and when the 4wd was disengaged

i would break track traction without meaning to, with only 220 kws

Meh

Been in more than one 400++awhp GTR that has a good amount of traction in 1st gear and nearly perfect traction in 2nd on the street. If your GTR can't grip with 400hp then there's either something wrong with your tire choice or suspension set up (ie very very hard and low wit screwed camber).

Aint ever been like that in any rwd skyline ive been in or owned, seems like anythin above 250rwhp can spin 2nd if you push it hard enough!

I have ~420awhp in a GT-R and it's far more streetable than my mates 370rwhp GTS-t. More traction everywhere, but as a trade off, less exciting.

Go for a 32/33 GT-R if you want a raw performance/track car. Go for the 34 GT-t if you want a comfortable daily driver that is still pretty quick.

Remember that the R32 GT-R's suffer oil-pump issues which were fixed in the 33 model, that was the factor that pushed me to fork out for a 33 GT-R (that, and I preffer the looks of the 33).

And you're also assuming that you can only get stockers for 30-35k, I can tell you that I picked mine up for roughly that price range and it has as many mods as a 25-30k R32 (N1 motor, HKS2835's, OS giken cross set, cage, power fc, ARC everything, OS twin place etc etc)

Just shop around and find a bargain, don't just buy any car because you're in a rush...

Yeh, was kinda hoping for one that's been rebuilt, because i know alot of them have been thrashed and won't cop it through my ownership (damnit i remember last autosalon a guy was selling a freshly rebuilt one with n1 turboes, to standard spec though i believe with nice paint for 23k)

Yeh, was kinda hoping for one that's been rebuilt, because i know alot of them have been thrashed and won't cop it through my ownership (damnit i remember last autosalon a guy was selling a freshly rebuilt one with n1 turboes, to standard spec though i believe with nice paint for 23k)

yeah they come up every now and then, make sure you check them receipts ;)

If you want performance, get a GTR. The RB26 is the best 6 ever made and if you want to drop bucks into a motor it's a much better place to start. GTR's are also not just about going fast in a straight line - Atessa is amazing. Other lines can look prettier and with enough $$$ can be faster but why start with less than Nissan's best?

32GTR same power output as a 34 GTT .. Obvious gain is 4wd..

the power output nissan quoted is the same (due to a gentlemans agreement that the jap car manufacturers have with the jap government not to make a car over 206kw). stick them both on a dyno and the results will tell you otherwise. the gtr will have more power.

it is still possible to get a gtr to light the tyres up in first and second. if you like giving it a bit of stick in the wet i'd say go for the gtt. sure the gtr has awd, but that means you get understeer if the wheels start to spin.

I have a question about that.. i have heard that the torque split between the front and back wheels changes as you put the car through it's different paces.. i have also heard they have a 60/40 torque split.. whats the go here?

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