Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seperating things or selling as is mate?

If seperating, what brand FPR and how much u want?

For now, I'm not going to separate as I'd rather sell it as a whole package and be rid of it. Also, if I start to separate bits off then it could turn off potential buyers who'd be able to use the whole package. I also don't have the time or motivation to pull the whole car apart and get rid of everything individually, despite the fact I'd probably make more money.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162233-r33-gts-t-wreck/#findComment-3013446
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Not separating at this stage as I've had reasonable interest so far and just want to get rid of the whole thing.

Location is Samford, Brisbane as stated in the original post.

Unfortunatly it only made 12kw at the roof due to drivetrain losses...

What happened was a mate driving with me as the passenger and a mate in the back. Came around and corner a little fast (doing about 40km/h) and the back slid out a little which put us at a 45deg angle subsequently rocketing us into a traffic island when the rears grabbed back on. Hitting the island at such as angle managed to flip the damn thing. Unlucky that it rolled the car considering the low speed but very lucky that no-one was hurt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162233-r33-gts-t-wreck/#findComment-3068352
Share on other sites

i cant believe the front bar looks almost undamaged very impressive free bump good luck with the sale

i'd be pissed of with your mate, one of my mates had his car flipped by his at the time girl friend they aint together anymore, not too good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162233-r33-gts-t-wreck/#findComment-3070099
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey mate im very very interested in the side skirts and rear pods. am willin to take it off u asap 4 a decent price and also the front impact bar ....... thats if u will b willing to take impact bar off.

cheers

peetz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162233-r33-gts-t-wreck/#findComment-3134144
Share on other sites

hey,

will u spearate turbo n lines etc. very interested.

thanks

john

Apologies to those who have pm'd me with part offers. I am not parting it out. This sale is for the entire wreck as a whole as indicated by the price.

Item: A while back my Skyline got killed. Here it is for sale in all it's glory. Nothing has been removed. It's the whole wreck as is with all parts attached which made it my 240rwkw daily driver.

1994 S1 R33 Gts-t Coupe Manual (White)

Engine Mods (all purchased less than two years ago - Over $10000 including labor and tuning)

--------------

ITS460 (460hp) Hybrid T04e Turbo

Garrett FMIC Kit

Wold3Dv4

3" Full Exhaust + Hi Flow Cat (Dead Muffler)

Upgraded Fuel Pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator

Apexi Power Filter Kit

GFB Hybrid BOV (Atmo/Plumback)

Single Plate Ceramic Clutch (Very Heavy)

Extra stuff (oil lines, silicone air filter piping etc...)

Other Stuff

-------------

Alpine Single CD Head Unit

Boost Guage

Apexi Turbo Timer

Mongoose M80(I think) 3 point Immobilizer

Location: Samford, Brisbane.

Website:

Updated - Item Condition: The body is rooted as the car rolled. Suspension and steering are fine, gearbox great, stock wheels fine (front tires great, rear not so great), head lights fine. As far as the engine goes, I have had the engine compression tested and the test came out great with all cylinders showing between 185 and 195psi. One coil is busted which is preventing one cylinder from firing but a prospective buyer brought a working coil around to test the engine and the engine held idle perfectly and blew no smoke. However, the engine will not accelerate due to what I have been told is a vacuum leak.

Before the crash, the car as a whole was in very good condition. The only issue it gave me over two years of ownership (one year stock, one year 240rwkw) was a busted wheel bearing. Also, the engine has not been run at over 16psi as I am still using stock injectors. The turbo (originally $2500) is good for 20psi so it has had a very easy life being run less than full boost and cooled with the turbo timer accordingly so it should be in near perfect condition. The car was never taken on the track and has been babied and serviced regularly. I've fanged up Nebo and Mt Mee a couple of times but that's pretty much the most action the car had.

Reason for Selling: I'm not going to buy another Skyline so the mods/parts/etc are of no use to me.

Price and Payment Conditions: $5000 is the asking price but I'll take the best offer. Considering the car contains around $8000 worth of aftermarket parts, a working RB25 gearbox and an RB25DET with good compression, it's a very good price. Someone wanting to part it out would make well over the purchase price. Someone wanting to modify their own R33 would save money on parts and still be left with the gearbox and engine to sell.

Extra Info: Not at this stage.

Pictures: Two crash pics and one of the Skyline in it's former glory.

Contact Details: Drew - 0422 415 796 or PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162233-r33-gts-t-wreck/#findComment-3134179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...