Rb25 Took 5l On Oil Change Now Hunts

[R33_Rob]

hey guys

so today i did an oil change on my non turbo 33. it took just under 5L of oil and i did not change the filter. also it seems to run kinda run. when i rev it up and then take my foot off the accelerator it will sound like its hunting but the taco doesnt show it.

any ideas what it could be??

and i used Pro Sync 10W30.

thanks

[MANWHORE]

Whatever oil you use won't affect driveabiltiy much unless you've used something totally f**ked up like a gear oil (75 w 90) or something.

All that I can say, is I usually get about 4.6-7L in.

Is this the first time you've done the oil change? or have you done it before and notice that it's different this time.

[No Crust Racing]

Hunting is a notorious RB problem, can be the AAC or AFM most commonly. As mentioned, oil won't affect it much unless you've totally used the wrong oil. Assuming you didn't knock something during the process I'd say AAC or AFM for starters, bad coils and plugs have also been known to cause idle issues.

[R33_Rob]

ah ok.

well i have changed the oil twice and i normally have 200mL left over from a 5L bottle. so its more than last time. i dont know what i should do.

what is the AAC?

when you refer to the afm do you mean i should clean it?

EDIT: OH MY GOD I JUST GOT COILPACKS CONFUSED WITH IGNITION LEADS. *IDIOT*

Edited March 29, 2007 by R33_Rob

[No Crust Racing]

The oil sounds unusual but I doubt it's cause for concern unless you've overfilled it heavily, but 200ml is bugger all so don't stress.

AAC = Aux Air Control I think, it's a valve at the back of the plenum that controls air on idle, the valve/spring mechanism gets carbon build up and doesn't operate properly. Cleaning is fairly simple, I did this on my Series II when I had a hunting issue and it cured it.

AFM can be cleaned with Electrical Contact Cleaner, couple bucks a can, but be gentle as not to damage the AFM wire.

Skyline's do have coil packs and over time they degrade and begin to arc across the coil causing all kinds of iginition related incidents. There's a heap of info on here about temporarily repairing them with all degrees of dodginess and some not so dodgy. I'd be checking AAC and AFM first though, easier and quicker to test and less expensive.

**EDIT** http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431

Link to AAC Valve and Idle Reset Thread

Edited March 29, 2007 by ActionDan

[R33_Rob]

EDIT: OH MY GOD I JUST GOT COILPACKS CONFUSED WITH IGNITION LEADS. *IDIOT*

so what should i be looking out for behind the plenum exaclty? what does the aac look like?

thanks for all your help

[No Crust Racing]

Refer to the tutorial, it's the one I followed. It doesn't take long at all but it can be a bit fiddly to get to the bottom screw on the AAC if you have normal guy sized hands. If you're a big guy then you might need someone with smaller hands to help out. These cars were not designed for Aussies =)

Have some carby cleaner on hand and a good stiff metal brush to get in there and clean the carbon off.