Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread is never going to reach any kind of a consensus. Too many people with too many differnt vies/biases.

I like seeing most skylines on the road, the r31 is a bit pintara for me though and I don't really know which is which. The r32 - r34's are generally nice. The 33 i dont like its lines in particular the rear (and front of S1), but if nicely modded they look ok. R32 and R34 are both sweet and when modded right look very tough!

Edited by r32line
  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R33 SERIES 2 GTST hands down are the best in looks youve all seen that one that just makes you have to have a nother look R33S2 = Shit Hot

1. Kick Ass Head Lights

2. Kick Ass Lines

3. Kick Ass In General end of story.

You are absolutly RIGHT!!

R33 series 2 model skylines (available 1996-1998) are indeed the best looking skylines out!!

1. Head lights

2. Body kit

2. CuRVES!!

and rear lights look awesome at night (2 different shades)

(PS. I know you like totally agree with me obeid, LOL)

Edited by Gold 180

Excluding the GTR's (which all look awesome) here's is what I think of the exterior (factory standard);

R31 = Ok, but a bit long in the tooth now. Factory wheels look crap.

R32 = Streamlined, yet semi aggresive. Just looks fast. Not a fan of the rear. Looks like someone in kinda was playing 'shapes' and just plonked them on there. White & black look best. Factory wheels look crap.

R33 series 1 = Yuk! Hate the front end, badges, bonnet and factory wings. Doesn't look like a sports car, more like a badly dressed sedan. Best thing is the factory illuminated rear panel. Factory wheels look crap.

R33 series 2 = Sleek with curves in the right places. More refined & smooth look. Subtle bonnet bulge & sharper headlights still retain an aggresive look though. Much better M spec wing & front bar. Orange blinkers on the front bar make it look a little dopey & outdated. Rear end just a tad bulbous (would have looked better if the boot went straight across & flat which would bring down the back slightly too). Silver & white look best. (white best suited to red tail light contrast). Factory wheels look crap.

R34 = Most aggresive stance. Looks mean as ass looks like it's slightly higher than the front. More brute than sexy. Compact. Best looking tail lights, but cheap looking (tail light) surrounds. Front lights not aggresive enough & look to 'family car' without the eye lids. Nismo front bar looks hot! Can look like a cereal box on wheels at times. Love the rear wing. All colours except yellow look great. Yellow just good. Factory wheels look semi-decent.

Interior wise (factory standard);

R31 = Outdated (but that can't be helped) Back room good.

R32 = Outdated (again, can't be helped). But good at the time. Back room crap.

R33 s1 = Can't get past that steering ugly wheel, probably nicer colour seats than the R33 s2.

R33 s2 = Nice, but a bit too simple & refined. Hasn't dated much compared to the previous models though. Back room crap.

R34 = Best. More aggresive dash. Guage mounts nice touch. But hate the poxy two tone colour seats. Seats could have been more figure hugging too. Looks like this is where the cost cutting came in. LED a/c display not as nice as R33. Back room crap.

Engine wise, every successor has gotten better.

If I had to choose between the single turbo Skyline's, then it would be the R34 GTT, then R33, R32, R31.

For the GTR's, it would be the same order. R34, R33 then R32.

This would make sense as every incarnation has been better in the majority of aspects. I don't think car manufacturers go out to make a worse next generation car.

*Note that any car can be made to look up to 50% better with some nice rims.

Edited by HotPlates

think of it this way:

the r32 is the girl you fell in love with and married.

the r33 is your wife after 10 years of said marriage. (still love her though)

the r34 is the girl from your primary school who was a lot bigger than you and beat you up (just her way of showing she likes you)

gtrs:

see above but think afro-american/latina

r32 sedan when kitted though...standard is crap :P

Any of the models with the right kit can look damn sexy. Such as that kitted 32.

think of it this way:

the r32 is the girl you fell in love with and married.

the r33 is your wife after 10 years of said marriage. (still love her though)

the r34 is the girl from your primary school who was a lot bigger than you and beat you up (just her way of showing she likes you)

gtrs:

see above but think afro-american/latina

WTF? That's some really deep analogy you got going there. Not sure if I quite understand it though. ;)

You are absolutly RIGHT!!

R33 series 2 model skylines (available 1996-1998) are indeed the best looking skylines out!!

1. Head lights

2. Body kit

2. CuRVES!!

and rear lights look awesome at night (2 different shades)

(PS. I know you like totally agree with me obeid, LOL)

Couldn't have said it any better!!

The Eariler ones are my favourite (gens 3-8)

dsc00409yp4.jpg

c11001oj1.jpg

imgp3511bq5.jpg

26mo8.jpg

18intopcz1.jpg

dsc9526pc2.jpg

The C210 i sold two weeks ago, and the r32 is mine.

The C10, DR30, HR31, and BNR32 are faves because of a strong racing pedigree.

There is not one that i dislike, i would happily have any of them (even a late model(square headlight) C210 Sedan with an L18 4 Cylinder, or an MR30 Hatch)

I don't really care what a car looks like, as long as it goes hard for what it is

I don't think car manufacturers go out to make a worse next generation car.

AU Falcon. :blink:

Edited by Mulkers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...