Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls.

my rb30de has decided to give up on me.. somehow when i was tuning the car it must have blown the rings on 2 cylinders... or its been like that for a long time.. not too sure..

but anyway its time for a rebuild..

this time its serious for my N/A

rb30 block, rb25de pistons, rb26 head and throttles..(and pleninum for now. bring on the hex throttles!!)

reground or nice large lift cams. might incress compression.. not sure untill i decide on the cams..

ajustiable cam gears, lightweight flywheel.. 6.1kg. heavy duty clutch(4th clutch in 30,000ks..)

plus im also looking for alloy radiator, oil filter relocation and cooler. plus a few other bits and bobs as i search around.

any other ideas to do while im rebuilding the engine?

that sucks to hear Geoff...

here's a link i've been saving for quite sometime...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2299153

it's sydneykid's ultimate build, i think you can steal some ideas from there... although this is starting to look into race car territory - i'm pretty sure it'd be a handful on the street.

mmm yeah that would be really nice.. but probly just a little impractical for street use.. plus would cost alot of coin..

even just trying to find a rb26 head is turning out to be alot harder then i was expecting.. its one of those things that you see when you dont want but when you do you cant find one...

hahaha yeah.. actually it's probably a good time to source an RB26 head... they have halved in price over here in australia over the past few months.

i had this RB30 plan all down pat late last year, i kept trying to convince myself that it would be cool, and i'd talk myself out of it then back into it. it was a vicious cycle.

i have actually decided to scrap the entire idea and go for something a little different.

anyway, this is pretty much what i had in my head

what you'll need:

- more compression 12:1 if possible? depends on fuel and tune

- hypereutetic/forged pistons

- hardcore cam shafts + cam gears

- new ecu D-jetro?

- throttle bodies w/ rb26 head (trumpets?) port and polish head

- extrude hone intake and exhaust ports

- aftermarket harmonic balancer

- increased redline

- knife blade & linish the crank

- balance everything! pistons, rods, etc etc...

that should hopefully see you easily into 150-170rwkw territory, with a nice revvy and responsive motor.

problem is, this really hasnt been done before - you are into R&D now.

hope that gives you a bit of direction.

thats what i was aiming for.. but the shear cost of a 26 head in NZ is crazy..

its cheeper for me to buy a running rb25det then to fix the rb30 with a couple of mods..

so im just going to have to go to the darkside.. just cant afford to do what i want to keep it NA..

thats what i was aiming for.. but the shear cost of a 26 head in NZ is crazy..

its cheeper for me to buy a running rb25det then to fix the rb30 with a couple of mods..

so im just going to have to go to the darkside.. just cant afford to do what i want to keep it NA..

exactly... it's an easy 10k build right there - i couldnt see myself justifying that kind of cash for it.

there are also harmonic issues that RB30s are notorious for, and you wont see past a healthy 6,000rpm without throwing more money into it.

well mine held up till 7000 daily so there not too bad..

if i was going to build a dream rb30 i would need some kind of sponsership..

plus i do kinda needa start saving for a house...

im gona spend 5g on turboing the car, engine 2500, gearbox 1000(if i get a deal) front mount 500, 3" mild steel exhuast 650, walbro 255lt/h 235.. i also plan to get an alloy radiator so there is about $600

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...