Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing New Turbo - Should Oil Line Be Primer?

Trav33

By Trav33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

When upgrading my turbo last month i just unplugged the fuel pump fuse and kicked it over a few times.

All perfect.Drove the car off boost for a couple of days then put some boost into it. :P

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)
just serching to find the answer to my question abut priming the turbo. I've cranked for about 30 seconds in total and still no oil at turbo inlet - should I just keep goig and see if it gets there. Anyone else hd this problem?

thanks

it will take at least 30 seconds to get oil pressure in a engine at cranking rpm that hasnt been started in a while, and at cranking speed the engine isnt doing anything near the rpm at idle so this will affect the time it takes the oil pump to get the oil moving. Just dont let it crank over for too long, cause its not the best thing for you starter motor to be under that sort of load for a long time. Give it 10-15seconds then stop, wait and try again. It will pump eventually.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

would it be easy to just pour a little bit of fresh engine oil into the core before assembly? Surely you have some left, I buy the Shell Helix 5w40 and it only comes in 5l, and the Skyline only takes about 4.6l. Always a little bit left over.

lol just don't pour it into the water feed.

Also, make sure your horozontal feed is not dead flat, rotate the core so the feed is on and angle to prevent pockets of air sitting inside the core.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...