Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

plus that's the price you would have paid for one in tokyo in $AU. not in australia.

i would think a new nissan murano (for example) costs more here in $AU than the same model in japan. see what i'm saying?

edit: what ^^ he ^^ said :)

Edited by Munkyb0y

Thanks for the response guys - appreciate it!

I did some asking around, and it seems R33's were around $45,000 AUD plus import fees when they first came out...

By the way, the true and factual name for for all skylines are WR33 - fact. Not just R33 as we know it now... it has just been abbreviated.

Thanks for the response guys - appreciate it!

I did some asking around, and it seems R33's were around $45,000 AUD plus import fees when they first came out...

By the way, the true and factual name for for all skylines are WR33 - fact. Not just R33 as we know it now... it has just been abbreviated.

There was never any W in the R33 model code. There where ECR33, BCNR33, HR33 & ER33 depending on wether they where turbo, four door, two door, two wheel drive or four wheel drive. Follow the link earlier in this post and you will see them.

There was never any W in the R33 model code. There where ECR33, BCNR33, HR33 & ER33 depending on wether they where turbo, four door, two door, two wheel drive or four wheel drive. Follow the link earlier in this post and you will see them.

Hi guys, my apologies, you are right... I did a typo... HR33 - for turbo... got mixed up with WR instead.... edit to that.

R33 GTS-T $48990 drive away :) .

A few years ago I can remember when i saw a R34 GTT going for $45000 in a second hand car yard.

So new they were probly around the $50000 mark.

I have an early (1999) issue of high performance imports magazine which has an article on one of the first R34 GTTs in Australia. It was brand new at the time (less than 100kms) and the importer in Queenlands was asking $90,000 for it. (GTRs then were over $150k)

The article argues that the GTT is a direct competitor for BMW E36 M3 which at that time retails for $140000 in Australia. So it is a very reasonable price for an unique high performance import.

R33 GTS-T $48990 drive away :D .

A few years ago I can remember when i saw a R34 GTT going for $45000 in a second hand car yard.

So new they were probly around the $50000 mark.

I have an early (1999) issue of high performance imports magazine which has an article on one of the first R34 GTTs in Australia. It was brand new at the time (less than 100kms) and the importer in Queenlands was asking $90,000 for it.

tell 'im he's dreamin'...

when they released the R34GTT in NZ it was $60,000 NZ at the NIssan dealers, at the time the exchange rate was crap so it would have been about $50,000 AU then add on luxury tax etc.

Brand new R34 GTRs were $120,000 NZ from the dealer as well, a pretty good deal compared to what was being charged for 2nd hand ones here at the time $150,000 Au +++.

^^^ Right, so when you take into exchange rate at the time, competitors prices and japanese prices AND what people would be prepared to pay for such a car at the time, Nissan AU would probably charge a tad under $60,000 when new. It wouldv've come in for about $63 - 65,000 drive away depending on what the dealer could get away with.

^^^ Right, so when you take into exchange rate at the time, competitors prices and japanese prices AND what people would be prepared to pay for such a car at the time, Nissan AU would probably charge a tad under $60,000 when new. It wouldv've come in for about $63 - 65,000 drive away depending on what the dealer could get away with.

Thanks for the responses guys, I guess lets say $45k when new for turbo r33 gst-t would be fair?

I love skylines, especially the r33's with a nice kit that is...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...